How do you grow strawberries? Do you grow them in hanging pots? Do you grow your strawberries upside down? Right-side up? In raised beds? Up high? Down low? Dr. Seuss could have written a book on the many ways strawberry plants are grown!
Of all the fruits and vegetables I grow, strawberries are my favorite. They give my family the biggest nutritional benefit while requiring the smallest amount of effort in the garden. Did you know strawberries are third on the list of fruits and vegetables with the highest pesticide residues (even after they are washed)? (For more information on fruits and vegetables with high pesticide residues, consider purchasing my book: Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits and Vegetables for Your Organic Garden )
Strawberry Growing Tips
I usually buy strawberry crowns from Peaceful Valley every fall, but I'm going to try Mountain Valley Growers next because they sell organic strawberry plants. I've purchased seeds and plants from both companies and have always been pleased with their service and quality.
Extend the Season
Grow three main types of strawberries to extend the season as long as possible.
-June Bearing Strawberry Varieties produce the largest crop, but they produce it all at once. Also called short-day varieties, june bearing strawberries flower only in cool temperatures and when day length is 14 hours or less.
I'm going to try growing 'Sweet Charlie' this year for my June Bearing crop. This small, container-friendly cultivar grows well in the southeast and has good resistance to Florida diseases. I've also grown 'Camarosa' successfully in North Florida.
-Day Neutral Strawberry Varieties produce small amounts of fruit throughout the growing season.
I grow Albion for my day neutral cultivar. It's very hardy in Florida's climate and tolerates container gardening quite well.
-Everbearer Strawberry Varieties produce one to two crops during the spring and late summer/early fall. They flower regardless of day length in daytime temperatures below 89 degrees Fahrenheit. Cooler climates may also get a crop or two during the summer. Everbearer strawberries don't produce runners are a good choice for container gardeners. I'm going to trial 'Seascape' this year. It's a low chill cultivar and produces large deep red, very sweet berries. What else could anyone want in a strawberry?
Everbearers are a type of Day Neutral strawberry. Woodland strawberry varieties are also everbearing. They produce tiny, candy-sweet strawberries.
Containers: I've grown strawberries in a variety of containers. I have several plants growing in an earth box right now. I have especially good luck with strawberry plants in hanging, self-watering containers. Strawberry plants will grow in just about any container, including herb pots and whiskey barrels. Just remember to add drainage holes to whatever container you select. Strawberry plants are shallow-rooted and only require 6 to 8 inches of soil, but allow at least 8 inches to 10 inches in diameter for growth.
Soil: Strawberries prefer rich, loamy soil. Standard organic potting mixes are usually adequate, but some researchers recommend adding well-rotted leaf mold to the soil before planting. I usually stir in about 1 cup of worm compost per plant into potting soil.
Planting Crowns: Its important to plant strawberry plants correctly or they may become susceptible to rot. Bury the plant so the crown, the junction between the roots and the leaf stems, is exactly at the soil line.
Moisture: Strawberries are prone to moisture-related disease so place strawberry pots in a well-ventilated location protected from excessive rain. So far I've not had issues with Florida's high humidity levels. This might be in-part because all my strawberry plants are bottom watered. Because strawberry plants are shallow rooted, they die quickly in drought conditions. Drip irrigation attached to a moisture sensitive timer is another irrigation option.
Fertilization: Side dress with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer, such as blood meal, if young plants appear light green or stunted. Fertilize again with a balanced organic fertilizer one month before plants start to bud.
Pests & Diseases: If you control the amount of moisture that comes in contact with strawberry plant leaves, you will eliminate most diseases from your strawberry garden. Placing copper strips around the bottom of the plants and Remay row covers over the plants eliminates most pests. Just remember to remove row covers when the plants flower. I admit I haven't tried either of these measures on my strawberry plants. Growing them in hanging containers in a screened enclosure eliminates most pest threats. Without an enclosure, your most common predator will likely be birds. I believe they used to circle my strawberry plants waiting until the berries were just the right shade of red before they flew in to consume the whole crop in minutes. Netting solved the bird problem, but made gardening a little more challenging.
That's about all it takes to grow strawberries in containers. Your only other challenge will be getting your family to bring the strawberries into the house without eating them all on the way.
Of all the fruits and vegetables I grow, strawberries are my favorite. They give my family the biggest nutritional benefit while requiring the smallest amount of effort in the garden. Did you know strawberries are third on the list of fruits and vegetables with the highest pesticide residues (even after they are washed)? (For more information on fruits and vegetables with high pesticide residues, consider purchasing my book: Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits and Vegetables for Your Organic Garden )
Strawberry Growing Tips
I usually buy strawberry crowns from Peaceful Valley every fall, but I'm going to try Mountain Valley Growers next because they sell organic strawberry plants. I've purchased seeds and plants from both companies and have always been pleased with their service and quality.
Extend the Season
Grow three main types of strawberries to extend the season as long as possible.
-June Bearing Strawberry Varieties produce the largest crop, but they produce it all at once. Also called short-day varieties, june bearing strawberries flower only in cool temperatures and when day length is 14 hours or less.
I'm going to try growing 'Sweet Charlie' this year for my June Bearing crop. This small, container-friendly cultivar grows well in the southeast and has good resistance to Florida diseases. I've also grown 'Camarosa' successfully in North Florida.
-Day Neutral Strawberry Varieties produce small amounts of fruit throughout the growing season.
I grow Albion for my day neutral cultivar. It's very hardy in Florida's climate and tolerates container gardening quite well.
-Everbearer Strawberry Varieties produce one to two crops during the spring and late summer/early fall. They flower regardless of day length in daytime temperatures below 89 degrees Fahrenheit. Cooler climates may also get a crop or two during the summer. Everbearer strawberries don't produce runners are a good choice for container gardeners. I'm going to trial 'Seascape' this year. It's a low chill cultivar and produces large deep red, very sweet berries. What else could anyone want in a strawberry?
Everbearers are a type of Day Neutral strawberry. Woodland strawberry varieties are also everbearing. They produce tiny, candy-sweet strawberries.
Containers: I've grown strawberries in a variety of containers. I have several plants growing in an earth box right now. I have especially good luck with strawberry plants in hanging, self-watering containers. Strawberry plants will grow in just about any container, including herb pots and whiskey barrels. Just remember to add drainage holes to whatever container you select. Strawberry plants are shallow-rooted and only require 6 to 8 inches of soil, but allow at least 8 inches to 10 inches in diameter for growth.
Soil: Strawberries prefer rich, loamy soil. Standard organic potting mixes are usually adequate, but some researchers recommend adding well-rotted leaf mold to the soil before planting. I usually stir in about 1 cup of worm compost per plant into potting soil.
Planting Crowns: Its important to plant strawberry plants correctly or they may become susceptible to rot. Bury the plant so the crown, the junction between the roots and the leaf stems, is exactly at the soil line.
Moisture: Strawberries are prone to moisture-related disease so place strawberry pots in a well-ventilated location protected from excessive rain. So far I've not had issues with Florida's high humidity levels. This might be in-part because all my strawberry plants are bottom watered. Because strawberry plants are shallow rooted, they die quickly in drought conditions. Drip irrigation attached to a moisture sensitive timer is another irrigation option.
Fertilization: Side dress with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer, such as blood meal, if young plants appear light green or stunted. Fertilize again with a balanced organic fertilizer one month before plants start to bud.
Pests & Diseases: If you control the amount of moisture that comes in contact with strawberry plant leaves, you will eliminate most diseases from your strawberry garden. Placing copper strips around the bottom of the plants and Remay row covers over the plants eliminates most pests. Just remember to remove row covers when the plants flower. I admit I haven't tried either of these measures on my strawberry plants. Growing them in hanging containers in a screened enclosure eliminates most pest threats. Without an enclosure, your most common predator will likely be birds. I believe they used to circle my strawberry plants waiting until the berries were just the right shade of red before they flew in to consume the whole crop in minutes. Netting solved the bird problem, but made gardening a little more challenging.
That's about all it takes to grow strawberries in containers. Your only other challenge will be getting your family to bring the strawberries into the house without eating them all on the way.
No comments:
Post a Comment
Post a Comment. Thank You!