Watering the Vegetable Garden

How do you water a garden during a drought? We usually have too much rain in the summer so to combat this new challenge for us, we installed drip irrigation, mulched and prayed. The size of our vegetables demonstrate a need for more water so we're putting the drip irrigation on a timer. If you'd like to read more about irrigation options, you might be interested in this article I wrote for ehow: Irrigating the Vegetable Garden.

Drip irrigation always itimidated me before I enrolled in a Master Gardener program. It turns out to be pretty easy! Just buy a kit with all the attachments, hook it to your garden hose and you'll be up and ready in about one hour.

Why use drip irrigation? Drip directs a slow, steady source of water to plant roots at a rate they can absorb with little-to-no run-off or evaporation.


The difference in moisture retention between a mulched container and an unmulched is remarkable. I find straw does a better job of moisture retention than does landscape fabric. A layer of newspaper under straw or landscape fabric helps with weed suppression and moisture retention. At the end of the season, I pull up the landscape fabric to give the soil a chance to regenerate. Mulch need not be removed. It breaks down and improves the soil texture.

Now for the praying part--I think I'm going to invite some Native American friends over for a rain dance. It can't hurt.

Spinach

Is it too hot to grow spinach now? During the summer months, I usually grow Malabar, a heat-tolerant cousin to spinach, but this year I'm trying heat tolerant Japanese spinach varieties instead.

Komatsuna, sold by Evergreen Seeds

most closely resembles spinach in texture and shape. The flavor of Komatsuna is spicier than traditional spinach.

Okame, sold by Kitazawe Seed Company has spinach-like flavor, but has thicker, serrated leaves. Grow Okame in late spring and early fall. Though it bolts later than traditional spinach, it does bolt quicker than other Japanese spinach varieties.

Samba, sold by Kitazawa Seed Company, is fairly heat tolerant and is resistant to powdery mildew. A bit crunchier than traditional spinach, Samba must be cooked before eating.

In partial shade to full sun, plant the seeds or transplants 12-18 inches apart in rows at least 2 ft. apart. Spinach is a heavy nitrogen feeder and requires a consistent watering schedule. Excessive water encourages powdery mildew, however, so allow the top two inches of soil to dry before watering again. Drip irrigation discourages moisture related disease.

Grapes

Ever wanted to grow grapes and make your own wine or jelly? It is not as difficult as you might think! You can even grow them in containers. Coming in at #12 on this year's "Dirty Dozen" list, imported grapes -- often all you can purchase at the grocery store -- might give you a little more motivation to try growing grapes.

I first tried growing grapes when I wrote Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits & Vegetables for Your Organic Garden. I grew Muscadine grapes because they grow easily in north and central Florida. I don't like them for fresh eating, but they are an excellent source of Resveratrol and also make excellent jelly.  Resveratrol is the powerful antioxidant found in the skins of red grapes.


Here's a short excerpt from the book:

Michigan State Food Monitoring Program tested fresh grapes in 1991. Nine different pesticides were found on samples tested. Twenty-three percent had residues of Microbutamil and 23% had residues of Iprodione.

In 1994, the Texas Department of Agriculture conducted pesticide residue testing on grapes at wholesale outlets in Texas. Sixty-one percent of samples tested positive for more than one pesticide residue. Twenty-two pesticides were found in total...

"Muscadine grapes grow throughout the southeast, extending from central and northern Florida along the Gulf of Mexico to Texas and as far north as Missouri. Pest and disease resistant, these vines are almost always grown without chemicals. Though muscadine varieites have rather large seeds, they are prolific producers of sweet delicious fruit...

'Thompson' is suitable for desert climates. In colder climates, consider 'Reliance' or 'Canadice.'

Growing Grapes in Containers:

"Grapes have a tap root and need a very deep container. To have a chance at producing fruit, containers should be at least 15 inches deep.
Excellent drainage is especially important when growing grape vines. Add 1/4 inch of gravel to the bottom of a container with at least three drainage holes...

Site Selection

"As grapes are a vining plant, set up a trellis for them prior to planting. Grape vines are usually trained to travel horizontally so keep this in mind when selecting a location for the plants. Because the plants will quickly grow onto any support they can reach, it is not easy to move the plants to other locations during inclement weather. Select a site where the plants can grow year round. If a fence is not available, attach a trellis to a wall using supports spaced 4 to 6 inches from the wall to allow air circulation...





Optimum Growing Conditions:

Location/Sun Exposure:
Fruit production may be diminished in windy conditions. Select a protected site for growing grape vines. Muscadine varieties produce fruit in full sun to partial shade. Site selection for true grapes depends on the temperature. In hot climates, place grapes in full sun to partial shade. In cooler regions, true grapes require full sun.

Moisture: Water grape vines consistently, but allow the soil to dry between waterings. To avoid excess moisture on the leaves and subsequent fungal diseases, consider installing drip irrigation.

Temperature: Muscadine grape vines - 10 degrees Fahrenheit and warmer. True grapes - variety specific. (chart provided in the book.)

Soil: Grapes prefer well-draining soil in a pH range of 6.0-6.5 .

Fertilization: Grapes generally do not require a lot of fertilization. High levels of nitrogen will cause the plant to grow excessive foliage with little fruit production. A treatment with dilute organic balanced fertilizer is usually sufficient..."

There is much, much more about growing grapes in container in Container Gardening for Health, but I hope this blog gets you thinking about growing grapes.

Artichokes

When Richard took me to meet his family the first time, his mom made fabulous stuffed artichokes. Unfortunately, I had never seen whole artichokes before and I had no idea how to eat them...it took me forever to eat the leaves and Richard dutifully scraped the choke off the heart for me. I was so wrapped up in my eating challenge, I failed to notice the rest of the family had finished eating much earlier than me and they were all patiently waiting for me to finish so they could have dessert. I'm happy to say, I not only learned how to eat them, but also how to grow and cook them.

Artichokes grow well in frost-free regions when daytime temperatures range between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit and night time temperatures range from 50 – 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Warm climate gardeners have success with 'Green Globe'. Plant early in spring after the last frost as high temperatures sometimes cause artichokes to open their buds prematurely.

Colder regions might fare better with 'Imperial Star'.

Artichokes grow to 5 feet tall and 6 feet wide. Select a planting site where they will not shade out smaller plants. Artichoke plants produce for about five years so select a spot where they do not have to be moved each season.

Artichokes grow well in sandy loam. Add about 6 inches of compost to poor soil to improve drainage before planting. Bury the roots shallowly, 2 to 3 feet apart. Keep the soil moist, but never soggy throughout the growing season. Enrich the soil with composted manure and green sand to ensure adequate supplies of nitrogen and potassium throughout the growing season.

If growing in containers, plant artichokes in containers a minimum of 20 inches deep by 36 inches wide. Containers should have at least 4 drainage holes. Add at least 1/4 inch of gravel to the bottom of the container to facilitate good drainage.

Artichokes do not grow true to their variety from seed. For reliable results, plant artichokes from root sections of your desired variety.

Harvest artichokes when they have reached their full size, but the leaves are still tight.

Cut back the plants to ground level after harvesting. Cover them with a thick layer of straw for winter protection.

Weeds, Deer, and Whiteflies in the Garden

Isn't it stinky when you get sick in spring? Finally the weather is nice and you're ready to get planting when bam! along comes the pollen...and the sinus infection...and suddenly your energy level is at zero. I haven't worried too much about my plants during the two weeks I've been sick because we've had a steady drizzle of rain to keep the plants and seedlings happy.

But I decided I'd better drag myself out to the gardens today in case the weeds were taking over.

After several cups of hot sage and peppermint tea, I expended all my energy tying my shoes, but somehow made it out the door to check on my plants. Of course I felt better once I got outside.

The container garden looks absolutely beautiful. The herbs are draping over their pots, the flowers are all blooming and the strawberries are ripening.

I wasn't so happy to see the swarm of whiteflies around my potted citrus however. I sprayed them with diluted neem and a few drops of dishwashing soap. Hopefully this will be enough. I'm going to spray them with water everyday for a few days to discourage them from coming back.

For severe infestations, Neem is a good organic control for whiteflies. It only works on contact, however. That's good in one way because it doesn't leave chemical residues on your plants. Yellow sticky traps, on the other hand will continue to work for weeks. Hang them from tree branches on the level of the swarming insects where they will not be in direct sunlight. They are inexpensive and effective, but you can also make your own by spray painting cardboard with yellow paint and coating the dried paint with petroleum jelly.




In the pasture garden, things didn't look so good. Deer tracks through the rows explained why only about 50% of what I planted has grown. Why didn't the deer bother to eat the weeds that are quickly taking over the newly cultivated raised beds? I spent the day laying newspaper and covering this with landscape fabric. I find a layer of newspaper does a better job of suppressing weed growth than the fabric by itself. Tomorrow I will replant the pole beans, corn and melons. As for the deer, they seem to stay away after I've spent time in the garden.

In the end, it didn't really matter how bad my garden looked. What mattered was how much better I felt after spending a day gardening.

Now it's off to the Wellborn Community Garden to install the drip irrigation.

Asparagus

My brother has a fabulous spring asparagus recipe. It's really simple, but fresh picked asparagus doesn't need a complicated recipe to taste delicious. One night, I left the asparagus under the broiler a minute too long. The result was a slightly charred, crunchy, nutty-flavored asparagus dish.  I don't think I'll serve it to company, but my family does like blackened asparagus!

My brother's asparagus recipe (Thanks, Greg):
Wash and pat dry pencil thin (or thinner) spears. Lay them in a single layer on a broiler pan that has been greased with olive oil.
Drizzle the spears with a teaspoon of olive oil.
Squeeze half a fresh lemon over the spears
Broil for 3 to 4 minutes until spears are just beginning to soften.
Sprinkle fresh parmesan-reggiano cheese shavings over the top and serve.

For the most delicate flavor and texture, you will need to grow your own asparagus or raid a neighbor's garden.  Growing asparagus in Florida and other parts of the southeast, however, is only a task I recommend for strong-willed gardeners. Asparagus requires a period of stress -- cold weather or drought -- to enter dormancy.  Since a dormant period is necessary for a hardy asparagus crop, you can understand why a Florida asparagus crop might not be worth the effort you put into growing this perennial. North and Central Florida gardeners will have better luck growing asparagus than south Florida gardeners.

 Remember, asparagus is a perennial so prepare a rich soil in a place you will not be plowing for the next four to five years. A deep bed of compost mixed with manure works well for asparagus. Select a sunny spot, preferably in an area where you can control moisture levels. The ferns get quite tall and should not be cut back the first year so select an area where your asparagus won't shade out smaller plants.

Be sure to cultivate the soil well and remove all weeds before planting. Asparagus does not tolerate competition with weeds.

To grow asparagus in the southeast, plant one to two year old crowns in the spring. Plant them in 6 inch deep furrows about 12 inches apart. Cover with two inches of soil. Add more soil to the plants throughout the growing season as they grow taller.

If it doesn't rain, water the plants thoroughly once weekly until June. Then water the plants just once every other week (If it is raining, don't water them at all.) Hopefully, your plants will not be deluged with rain and you will have simulated drought conditions for your asparagus. If your plants did not experience a summer drought, pray for a cold winter.  In July, return to watering the plants thoroughly once weekly.

After year one, you can cut the ferns back in late winter after they have died. The ferns are infamous for harboring asparagus beetle so its better to burn them than to place them in a compost pile.

In year two, harvest a few of the larger spears, but allow most of the asparagus to continue growing.

In year three, enjoy your first productive season. It is better to snap the 6 inch spears than to cut them.

I'm growing Jersey Supreme. It is a mostly male asparagus cultivar and is heat tolerant to zone 9.

How Do You Grow Strawberries?

How do you grow strawberries? Do you grow them in hanging pots? Do you grow your strawberries upside down? Right-side up? In raised beds? Up high? Down low? Dr. Seuss could have written a book on the many ways strawberry plants are grown!

Of all the fruits and vegetables I grow, strawberries are my favorite. They give my family the biggest nutritional benefit while requiring the smallest amount of effort in the garden. Did you know strawberries are third on the list of fruits and vegetables with the highest pesticide residues (even after they are washed)?  (For more information on fruits and vegetables with high pesticide residues, consider purchasing my book: Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits and Vegetables for Your Organic Garden )


Strawberry Growing Tips

I usually buy strawberry crowns from Peaceful Valley every fall, but I'm going to try Mountain Valley Growers next because they sell organic strawberry plants. I've purchased seeds and plants from both companies and have always been pleased with their service and quality.

Extend the Season
 
Grow three main types of strawberries to extend the season as long as possible.

-June Bearing Strawberry Varieties produce the largest crop, but they produce it all at once. Also called short-day varieties, june bearing strawberries flower only in cool temperatures and when day length is 14 hours or less.
I'm going to try growing 'Sweet Charlie' this year for my June Bearing crop. This small, container-friendly cultivar grows well in the southeast and has good resistance to Florida diseases. I've also grown 'Camarosa' successfully in North Florida.

-Day Neutral Strawberry Varieties produce small amounts of fruit throughout the growing season. 
I grow Albion for my day neutral cultivar. It's very hardy in Florida's climate and tolerates container gardening quite well.


-Everbearer Strawberry Varieties produce one to two crops during the spring and late summer/early fall. They flower regardless of day length in daytime temperatures below 89 degrees Fahrenheit. Cooler climates may also get a crop or two during the summer. Everbearer strawberries don't produce runners are a good choice for container gardeners.  I'm going to trial 'Seascape' this year. It's a low chill cultivar and produces large deep red, very sweet berries. What else could anyone want in a strawberry?
Everbearers are a type of Day Neutral strawberry. Woodland strawberry varieties are also everbearing. They produce tiny, candy-sweet strawberries.

Containers: I've grown strawberries in a variety of containers. I have several plants growing in an earth box right now. I have especially good luck with strawberry plants in hanging, self-watering containers. Strawberry plants will grow in just about any container, including herb pots and whiskey barrels.  Just remember to add drainage holes to whatever container you select. Strawberry plants are shallow-rooted and only require 6 to 8 inches of soil, but allow at least 8 inches to 10 inches in diameter for growth.

Soil:  Strawberries prefer rich, loamy soil. Standard organic potting mixes are usually adequate, but some researchers recommend adding well-rotted leaf mold to the soil before planting. I usually stir in about 1 cup of worm compost per plant into potting soil.

Planting Crowns: Its important to plant strawberry plants correctly or they may become susceptible to rot. Bury the plant so the crown, the junction between the roots and the leaf stems, is exactly at the soil line.

Moisture: Strawberries are prone to moisture-related disease so place strawberry pots in a well-ventilated location protected from excessive rain.  So far I've not had issues with Florida's high humidity levels. This might be in-part because all my strawberry plants are bottom watered. Because strawberry plants are shallow rooted, they die quickly in drought conditions. Drip irrigation attached to a moisture sensitive timer is another irrigation option.

Fertilization: Side dress with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer, such as blood meal, if young plants appear light green or stunted. Fertilize again with a balanced organic fertilizer one month before plants start to bud.

Pests & Diseases: If you control the amount of moisture that comes in contact with strawberry plant leaves, you will eliminate most diseases from your strawberry garden. Placing copper strips around the bottom of the plants and Remay row covers over the plants eliminates most pests. Just remember to remove row covers when the plants flower. I admit I haven't tried either of these measures on my strawberry plants. Growing them in hanging containers in a screened enclosure eliminates most pest threats. Without an enclosure, your most common predator will likely be birds. I believe they used to circle my strawberry plants waiting until the berries were just the right shade of red before they flew in to consume the whole crop in minutes. Netting solved the bird problem, but made gardening a little more challenging.

That's about all it takes to grow strawberries in containers. Your only other challenge will be getting your family to bring the strawberries into the house without eating them all on the way.