Friday, February 19, 2010

Creating Indoor Light for Seed Starting

The groundhog has made his move -- we all know there is only 6 more weeks of winter and the seed starting fever is in full swing. Kitchen countertops, television cabinets, ping pong tables have all been cleared -- all flat spaces will be used for seed starting for the remainder of winter. We've pulled out the bags of used yogurt containers, blended our seed starting mix, and read all that tiny print on seed packages.
Our dreams of an early spring garden can die, however, if indoor lighting is not given enough attention. If your seedlings are tall and "leggy," they probably lack adequate light. Here is a quick primer on creating light for seedlings.
Natural Light A south facing sunny window may provide enough lighting for your seedlings, but I usually find my indoor plants need a little more light than mother nature provides. If you have a good window, you may only need to add a reflective material, such as mylar, to give your plants a boost. If your flats are stashed away in a basement or an area with low visibility, consider painting the floors and walls for greater light reflection. Flat white paint is said to provide more light reflection than other types of paint.
Grow Lights Light from incandescant bulbs may be an adequate supplement to natural lighting. Incandescant lights are not especially efficient and produce a lot of heat, however.
High pressure sodium lights don't have the necessary color range to provide light exclusively, but are often used by professional growers as a supplement to natural lighting.
Flourescent Lighting is usually adequate for home gardeners needs. Compact and High Output flourescent lights come in both cool and warm versions. High Output flourescents are often preferred for color range and coverage.
I have not tried LED grow lights yet, but I believe they will be used widely by gardeners in coming seasons. LED grow lights have two red and two blue wave lengths that correspond to the chlorphyll peaks of plants. They produce very little heat and do not consume as much energy as other lighting.
With adequate lighting, your plants will grow strong, healthy stems and leaves. They'll be ready to transplant as soon as the sun melts that last freeze.

Friday, February 12, 2010

Florida Vegetable Seed Varieties and Sources

August 3, 2011-Update: The Gourmet Gardener is now selling seeds for Florida and other parts of the Southeast. Click here to enter our store: Gourmet Gardener Store
Hi everyone-
I've received many inquiries about seeds/plants this year.  Given my busy workshop/book signing schedule, I've decided not to retail (except at workshops) this year.  For my Florida gardening pals, here is a list of recommended vegetable seed varieties and sources.  Note: I'm having difficulty activating the links for seed sources on Blogger. The list with active links can be found on my website: The Gourmet Gardener.

Florida’s warm, humid climate is ideal for growing pests and fungal diseases.  The following vegetable varieties have natural or bred resistance to the most common garden challenges in Florida.  Much of this list comes directly from The University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agriculture Science (IFAS) recommendations.  We recommend you contact them for information specific to your county’s growing conditions.
 http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_hs_minor_vegetables

Note:  Though we cannot guarantee satisfaction, we believe the sources listed below to be reliable.  If you have any comments regarding personal experience with these companies, please email us at gginfo@windstream.net
Beans, Bush
Snap: Bush Blue Lake, Contender, Roma II, Provider, Cherokee Wax
Source: The Cook’s Garden
Shell: Horticultural, Pinto, Red Kidney, Black Bean, Navy
Beans, Pole
McCaslan, Kentucky Wonder, Blue Lake
Source: Henry Fields
Beans, Lima
Fordhook 242, Henderson, Jackson Wonder, Dixie (Speckled) Butterpea, Early Thorogreen
Source: Southern Exposure Seed Exchange
Beets
Tall Top, Early Wonder, Detroit Dark Red, Cylindra, Red Ace, Yellow Detroit
American Meadows
Broccoli
Early Green, Early Dividend, Green Sprouting/Calabrese, Waltham, Packman, De Cicco, Broccoli Raab (Rapini)
Wood Prairie Farm
Cabbage
Rio Verde, Flat Dutch, Round Dutch, Wakefield types, Copenhagen Market, Savoy, Red Acre
Next Harvest

Cantaloupes and Honeydews
Athena, Ambrosia, Galia (green flesh)
Henry Fields
Carrots
Imperator, Nantes, Danvers, Chantenay
Seeds of Change
Cauliflower
Snowball Strains, Snow Crown, Brocoverde
Millington Seeds
Celery We don’t recommend celery for Florida gardeners.  Try Utah Strains for limited success.     The herb, Celery Leaf, is a good alternative.
Next Harvest
Chinese Cabbage
Michihili, Bok Choy, Napa, Baby Bok Choy, Pak-choi, Joi Choi
Sustainable Seed Co
Collards
Georgia, Georgia Southern, Top Bunch, Vates
Seeds of Change
Corn, sweet
Silver Queen (white), How Sweet It Is (white), Sweet Ice (white), Sweet Riser (yellow), Early Sunglow (yellow)
Southern Exposure Seed Exchange




Cucumbers
Slicers: Sweet Success, Poinsett, Ashley, MarketMore 76, Straight Eight, Space Master
Henry Fields
Picklers: Liberty Hybrid, Eureka, Boston Pickling
Reimer Seeds
Eggplant
Black Beauty, Dusky, Long, Ichiban, Cloud Nine (white)
Millington Seeds
Endive/Escarole
Endive:Green Curled Ruffec
Escarole: Batavian Broadleaf
Jung Seeds
Kale
Vates Dwarf Blue Curled, Tuscan, Winterbor, Redbor
Southern Exposure Seed Exchange
Kohlrabi
Early White Vienyna, Purple Vienna
Henry Fields
Lettuce
Crisphead: Great Lakes
Butterhead: Ermosa, Bibb, Tom Thumb, Buttercrunch,
Loose Leaf: Simpson types, Salad Bowl, Red Sails, New Red Fire
Oak Leaf: Salad Bowl, Royal Oak
Romaine: Parris Island Cos, Outredgeous
Sustainable Seed Company
Mustard
Southern Giant Curled, Florida Broad Leaf, Tendergreen, Giant Red, Green Wave, Mizuna
Reimer Seeds

Okra
Clemson Spineless, Emerald, Annie Oakley II, Cajun Delight
Reimer Seeds
Onions
Bulbing: Granex (yellow)
Bunching (Green): Evergreen Bunching, White Lisbon Bunching
The Onion Shed
Leeks American Flag
Reimer Seeds
Peas English or Snow
Wando, Green Arrow, Sugar Snap, Oregon Sugarpod II
Victory Seeds
Peas, Southern (Field Peas, Cow Peas, Crowder Peas, Cream Peas)
California Blackeye No.5, Pinkeye Purple Hull, Texas Cream
Victory Seeds
Peppers
Bell: California Wonder, Red Knight, Big Bertha
Local Harvest
Other Sweet: Sweet Banana, Giant Marconi, Mariachi, Cubanelle
Victory Seeds
Jalapeno: Early Jalapeno, Jalapeno M
Specialty Hot: Cherry Bomb, Hungarian Hot Wax, Big Chile II, Numex, Ancho, Thai, Anaheim Chile, Long Cayenne, Habanero, Caribbean Red Habanero
Sustainable Seed Company
Potato
Red Pontiac, Yukon Gold, Gold Rush
Ed Hume Seeds
Potatoes, Sweet
Centennial, Beauregard, Vardaman
Henry Fields
Pumpkin
Big Max, Connecticut Field, Prizewinner, Jack Be Little, Jack O Lantern
Sustainable Seed Co
Radish
Cherry Belle, White Icicle, Sparkler, Champion, Daikon
Millington Seed Co.
Spinach
Melody, Bloomsdale Longstanding, Tyee, Space
Reimer Seeds
Squash
Summer: Early Prolific Straightneck, Summer Crookneck, Early White Scallop
Southern Exposure Seed Exchange
Winter: Spaghetti, Table King, Table Queen & Table Ace (Acorn), Waltham, Early Butternut (Butternut)
Wood Prairie Farm
Zucchini: Cocozelle, Spineless Beauty, Black Beauty
Seeds of Change

Strawberry
Chandler, Oso Grande, Sweet Charlie, Selva, Camarosa, Festival
Mountain Valley Growers
Swiss Chard
Bright Lights, Bright Yellow, Fordhook Giant, Lucullus, Red Ruby
Seeds of Change
Tomatoes
Large Fruit: Celebrity, Heat Wave II, Better Boy, Beefmaster, BHN444-Southern Star*, Amelia*, BHN 640*
Small Fruit: Sweet 100, Juliet, Red Grape, Sun Gold, Sugar Snack, Sweet Baby Girl
Heirloom: Green Zebra, Cherokee Purple, Eva Purple Ball, Brandywine, Mortgage Lifter, Delicious
*Resistant to TSWV (Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus)
Totally Tomatoes
Turnips
Roots: Purple Top White Globe
Roots and Greens: Purple Top
Greens: Seven Top, Shogoin
Henry Fields
Watermelon
Large: Jubilee (aka FL Giant), Crimson Sgweet, Charleston Grey 133
Small: Sugar Baby, Mickeylee

For information about growing vegetables in containers, consider purchasing my book:Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits & Vegetables for Your Organic Garden

Information Sources:
1.Document is SP103 Horticultural Sciences Department, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida. Original publication date, December 1991. Revised March 1994. Reviewed May 2003. Revised February 2009. Visit the EDIS Web site at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu.
2.
J.M. Stephens, professor emeritus, Horticultural Sciences Department; Sydney Park Brown, extension associate professor, Environmental Horticulture Department, and consumer horticulture specialist, Gulf Coast Research and Education Center--Plant City, FL; Danielle Treadwell, assistant professor, Horticultural Sciences Department, and organic farming specialist; Susan Webb, associate professor, Entomology and Nematology Department; Amanda Gevens, assistant professor, Plant Pathology Department; R.A. Dunn, retired professor, Entomology and Nematology Department; G. Kidder, retired professor, Soil Science Department; D. Short, retired professor, Entomology and Nematology Department; G.W. Simone, retired professor, Plant Pathology Department, Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville FL 32611.

Saturday, January 23, 2010

Container Fruit Trees

Since winter is the time to order deciduous fruit trees, I thought a blog on selecting fruit trees to grow in containers would be helpful.

Why grow fruit trees in containers?
Aside from their ornamental value (citrus trees by the pool are beautiful!), container fruit tree gardens are an excellent choice for gardeners who have limited space or poor soil. The portability of container fruit trees open up the possibility of growing tropical and citrus fruits in cold climates.
When selecting fruit trees for containers, always select dwarf trees.  They produce full sized fruit and grow just 6'-8' tall instead of a typical fruit tree which can grow 30'-40'.

Deciduous Fruit Trees: Deciduous Trees lose their leaves and become dormant during the winter months. Peaches, Pears, Cherries, and Apples are a few examples. Though each type of tree is different, here are a few general considerations when selecting a tree.
Chill Hours: Deciduous fruit trees usually require a certain number of "chill hours" in order to produce fruit. When purchasing fruit trees, select a fruit tree matching the hours your region receives on average below 45 deg.f. 
Moisture:  It is important to select varieties adapted for moisture levels in your region.  Peaches and pears are especially susceptible to moisture.
Sunlight:  Basically, all deciduous fruit trees require 4-6 hours of direct sunlight during the growth/fruiting phase.   Artificial light will likely be needed for trees grown indoors.

Citrus and Tropical Fruits: Thanks to the portability of container gardens, tropical fruits can be grown in most regions if brought indoors during the winter months.  Just  remember to cover outdoor trees during periods of light frost and to bring them indoors prior to any freezing temperatures.  Some varieties are more cold tolerant than others.  Harvey Lemons, for example, tolerate light freezes quite nicely.
Moisture:  Citrus and tropical fruits originated in areas with ample summer rains.  Plan to water them daily during periods of warm weather.
Sunlight:  Tropical and Citrus trees require at least 8 hours of sunlight a day.  They do not have a period of dormancy and so will require supplemental light if moved indoors during the winter months.

Sources for Deciduous Fruit Trees:
Arbor Day Foundation sells inexpensive, dwarf fruit trees.
Trees of Antiquity  sells heirloom and organic fruit tree varieties.
Just Fruits and Exotics, based in Florida, sells every fruit tree from Apples to Quince.  Their website is also very informative.

Sources for Citrus Trees:
Florida, California, Texas, New Mexico:  Floridians can only purchase citrus trees grown in Florida.  Florida growers may not sell to other states.  I like Harris Citrus in Tampa. 
California, Texas, and New Mexico prohibit the import of citrus. Four Winds Growers is a good choice for California gardeners. In Texas, I like Thompson Citrus. 
All other states:  Four Winds Growers ships to most states outside of the quarantined areas (even Alaska and Hawaii).

For additional information about organically growing cherry, apple, peach, nectarine and pear trees in containers, consider purchasing my book, Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits and Vegetables for Your Organic Garden

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Grow Garlic in Containers

What grows in Florida in December? How about Garlic? Garlic does its best growing in cold temperatures! Last December, I planted Inchelium Red in December and harvested a fantastic crop early the following summer.

I am planting Inchelium Red again this year. It grows well in Florida and I like its mild flavor.

Garlic would grow fine outside in the ground in my North Florida climate, but I'm not interested in planting in the cold so I'm growing my garlic in containers this year.

When planting garlic, begin with good certified seed garlic bulbs. Filaree Farms and Irish Eyes are good reliable sources for healthy seed garlic.

To grow garlic in containers, start with pots 15-24" tall. Add soil enriched with compost.

Break garlic bulbs apart and plant only the largest cloves. Plant cloves flat side down, about 2-3" deep and 4-6" apart.

Keep pots indoors or outside in temperatures above 50 deg. F for about 4 weeks. Containers can then be moved to overwinter outside in colder conditions. Add a 1-2" layer of mulch prior to hard, long lasting freezes.

Water lightly twice weekly.

For more on growing crops in Florida, consider purchasing my book, Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits & Vegetables for Your Organic Garden

Bright green stalks will emerge in spring, signaling you to top dress your plants with compost or seed meal. In addition to compost, I sprayed my garlic crop with fish emulsion every 2-3 weeks throughout the first half of spring. Once the rapid growing phase is over, bulbing begins and you should discontinue feedings.

When bulbing begins, reduce waterings to once weekly.

It's time to harvest garlic in Florida when about half the leaves have browned. Don't let northern gardeners talk you into waiting longer. Inevitably, my garlic crops have rotted if I have waited longer.

Dig around the bulbs with a spading fork and gently lift the bulbs.

Removing dirt from the bulbs is the most difficult aspect of growing garlic. Don't wash the bulbs as they must be dry to cure properly. I brush off most of the dirt and let the rest fall off as the bulbs are curing. To cure, tie the stalks of 8-10 bulbs and hang these in a well ventilated barn or shed. Last year, I left mine hanging well into fall in a pole barn and they kept perfectly well. You can take yours down after about 4 weeks. Place the bulbs in a net bag and store in a cool location (45-55 deg. F.) Cooler temperatures encourage sprouting.

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Common Nutrient Deficiencies in Vegetable & Fruit Plants


Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits & Vegetables for Your Organic Garden

Organic gardening is different from traditional gardening in its focus on creating healthy soil. When soil is nutrient rich, plants grow quickly and are better able to withstand pest and disease stress.
Nitrogen is necessary for photosynthesis, cell growth, and reproduction. This is the element plants use in greatest amounts. Plants deficient in Nitrogen may have yellow leaves and poor growth. Adding organic matter, such as aged manure, cottonseed, and composted plant materials will improve nitrogen levels in the soil.
Phosphorousis required for cell growth, plant reproduction, and flower and fruit formation. Plants deficient in Phosphorous will be stunted, a purplish tinge on the underside of their leaves (yellow leaves in the final stages), poor flowering and poor fruiting. Amend deficient soil with bone meal or rock phosphate.
Potassium is necessary for formation of flowers, leaves, and fruit. It plays a role in photosynthesis in low light conditions and in plants' water regulation. Potassium deficiency occurs most commonly in sandy and acidic soils. Amend deficient soil with kelp or seaweed.
Calcium strengthens stems and other plant parts. Calcium deficiency begins with yellowing and progresses to browning of young leaves. Calcium deficiency is responsible for blossom end rot in tomatoes and tip-burn in lettuce. Amend deficient soil with eggshells and oystershells.
Magnesium is crucial for photosynthesis. It also aids in the action of nitrogen, phosphorus, and sulfur. Magnesium aids in cleansing plants of natural metabolic waste. It assists in the formation of proteins. First symptoms include the discoloration of veins in the lower leaves. Leaves may also become thin and brittle and may cup upward. Amend soils deficient in Magnesium with Epsom salts, Fishmeal, or Greensand.

Other Nutrient Deficiencies discussed in the book include Iron, Zinc, Boron, and Copper.
Container Gardening for Health

Saturday, November 21, 2009

Create a Living Wreath Made of Herbs for Holiday Meals

Living wreaths add beauty and fragrance to your home during the holidays. Harvest sprigs from the wreath to flavor your holiday meals.

To make a holiday wreath, begin with a metal wreath form. Wrap it in moistened sphagnum peat moss. Tuck 3"-5" herb plants into the wreath and secure with florist pins. Wrap with additional moss to hide roots.

Prepare a tray (large enough to hold the wreath) with a thin layer of soil over a 2" layer of moistened gravel. Lay the wreath flat on the tray in a sunny area. As the herbs grow, continue to secure them to the wreath. In about 4 weeks, your wreath will be sufficiently full to hang from a doorway. Take the wreath down after the big day and return it to the tray when the guests have gone home.

Herbs to grow for the holidays:

Creeping Thyme -- Excellent on everything from Turkey to roasted vegetables.
Rosemary -- Delicious on lamb, pork tenderloin, red meats, and vegetables.
Sage -- A must for traditional turkey and dressing.
Parsley -- Not just a garnish! I prefer the flavor of the flat leafed Italian
variety over curly parsley. Used in many sauce recipes, salads, and other vegetable dishes. Add finely chopped parsley and chives to green beans.
Tarragon -- Integral in French cuisine, Tarragon has a strong, slight licorice flavor. It's often used in butter base sauces and included in a rub for Turkey and Lamb.
Chives -- I love finely chopped chives in my mashed potatoes. They are also commonly used in vegetable dishes.
Mint -- Removes the gamey flavor from lamb.


Happy Holidays


Monday, October 26, 2009

Raw Foods Diet

On Sunday I drove 3 hours west to Lakeland to give an organic gardening workshop at a Raw Foods Restaurant, Grass Roots. Owned and operated by Spencer & Sabrina Aird, Grass Roots has a warm ambience with cinnamon and saffron painted walls, large arched windows, and upscale art.

The Airds have created a hub for the raw/organic foodies in Lakeland (they also have a restaurant in Tampa). Like the owners, workshop attendees were vibrant and excited about growing some of their own foods.

My mission on this trip, however, was to learn as much as I taught. A small part of me believes I would be healthier on a raw foods diet, but a bigger part of me stubbornly reminds myself of the years I have spent developing recipes for cooked meals. I wanted to know how those who partake in the raw foods lifestyle survive (happily) without lentils, brown rice, pasta, apple pie...what kind of life is that?

After the workshop, I signed books and surveyed the crowd for the best person to corner about her diet. Aha! There she was...last in line and wearing yoga clothes. She would tolerate my questions no matter how basic and annoying. She handed me a book to sign and I held onto it until my questions were answered.

Beans? I asked. How do you live without beans? I asked a million questions and she answered them all.  Thank you, Patricia!

It would be inaccurate to say raw foods dieters don't cook. Though it may not be over a hot stove, they spend more time preparing their food than the average person. They combine ground up nuts with other vegetables to make raw crackers, julienne zucchini to create "noodles", and substitute little known vegetables, such as Mameysa Pote, for those that would require cooking, such as sweet potato.

If I ever become a raw foodie, I promise it won't be tomorrow. But I am going to incorporate more raw foods into my cooking...for example, I'll add diced carrots and celery to my lentils after the lentils are cooked.

So--is a raw foods diet really any healthier than a cooked diet rich in vegetables and whole grains? See the Side Wiki for more information about this debate.

For more on growing your own food, visit The Gourmet Gardener.