The Gourmet Gardener

Updates to the Dirty Dozen

2011-09-28T14:09:00.000-07:00

As climates, pests and plant diseases change, so too the chemicals on our food. Large-scale farmers fight a constant battle to produce blemish-free fruits and vegetables with shelf lives long enough for the transport of food thousands of miles to our grocery stores. It's quite a phenomenal feat really.

The purpose of my book -- now updated with the new name, Organic Container Gardening--Grow Pesticide Free Fruits and Vegetables in Small Spaces -- has never been to bash the farmer. Their job of feeding millions for a small re-numeration is hard enough! But I do want to feed my family fewer chemicals so I take the Environmental Working Group's list of foods that are high in pesticide residues seriously. By growing the fruits and vegetables from the list my family eats most commonly, I can reduce the chemicals in our diet, enjoy more nutritious produce and save a little money at the grocery store.

The truth is, no one knows how the chemicals from one fruit or vegetable will interact with those from another food in our bodies. No one really knows if chemicals -- designed to cause nerve or other damage to pests -- will build up in our bodies and cause cancers or other illnesses, though there is some research in children to support this theory.

We can't grow all the foods we eat ourselves, but we can grow those we eat most commonly, particularly those we know are high on the list of the most contaminated fruits and vegetables, aka "the dirty dozen". The Dirty Dozen is the 12 Fruits and Vegetables with the highest pesticide residues AFTER they have been "washed and prepared for eating", according the USDA/FDA studies.

Organic Container Gardening details how to grow "the dirty dozen", including the two newest members of this notorious club, Kale and Blueberries. We're pleased the book has been well reviewed and believe it truly has helped home gardeners grow organic produce in containers.

The new dirty dozen list, from most contaminated to least, is as follows:
Apple
Celery
Strawberries
Peaches/Nectarines
Spinach
Grapes
Sweet Bell Peppers
Potatoes
Blueberries
Lettuce
Kale

2011-07-09T17:45:00.000-07:00

I don't usually get involved in politics, but thought this gardener could use a little help from the gardening community. If you click on the link, you'll see a tidy yard with a raised bed garden. After the city of Oak Park, Michigan tore up this lady's front yard to replace a sewer line, she planted a vegetable garden. Because she refuses to remove the garden, she's been charged with a misdemeanor and is now facing jail time. I think we can shame the city into doing the right thing here. Please re-post!

The following is a repost from http://www.theagitator.com/2011/07/07/does-michelle-obama-know-about-this/

Oak Park, Michigan:

Their front yard was torn up after replacing a sewer line, so instead of replacing the dirt with grass, one Oak Park woman put in a vegetable garden and now the city is seeing green.
The list goes on: fresh basil, cabbage, carrots, tomatoes, cumbers and more all filling five large planter boxes that fill the Bass family’s front yard.
Julie Bass says, “We thought we’re minding our own business, doing something not ostentatious and certainly not obnoxious or nothing that is a blight on the neighborhood, so we didn’t think people would care very much.”
But some cared very much and called the city. The city then sent out code enforcement.
“They warned us at first that we had to move the vegetables from the front, that no vegetables were allowed in the front yard. We didn’t move them because we didn’t think we were doing anything wrong, even according to city code we didn’t think we were doing anything wrong. So they ticketed us and charged me with a misdemeanor,” Bass said . . .
City code says that all unpaved portions of the site shall be planted with grass or ground cover or shrubbery or other suitable live plant material. Tomatoes, peppers and cucumbers are what Basses see as suitable.
However, Oak Park’s Planning and Technology Director Kevin Rulkowski says the city disagrees. He says, “If you look at the dictionary, suitable means common. You can look all throughout the city and you’ll never find another vegetable garden that consumes the entire front yard.”

Read the rest of the story at: http://www.theagitator.com/2011/07/07/does-michelle-obama-know-about-this/

Watering the Vegetable Garden

2011-06-27T09:55:00.000-07:00

How do you water a garden during a drought? We usually have too much rain in the summer so to combat this new challenge for us, we installed drip irrigation, mulched and prayed. The size of our vegetables demonstrate a need for more water so we're putting the drip irrigation on a timer. If you'd like to read more about irrigation options, you might be interested in this article I wrote for ehow: Irrigating the Vegetable Garden.

Drip irrigation always itimidated me before I enrolled in a Master Gardener program. It turns out to be pretty easy! Just buy a kit with all the attachments, hook it to your garden hose and you'll be up and ready in about one hour.

Why use drip irrigation? Drip directs a slow, steady source of water to plant roots at a rate they can absorb with little-to-no run-off or evaporation.

The difference in moisture retention between a mulched container and an unmulched is remarkable. I find straw does a better job of moisture retention than does landscape fabric. A layer of newspaper under straw or landscape fabric helps with weed suppression and moisture retention. At the end of the season, I pull up the landscape fabric to give the soil a chance to regenerate. Mulch need not be removed. It breaks down and improves the soil texture.

Now for the praying part--I think I'm going to invite some Native American friends over for a rain dance. It can't hurt.

Spinach

2011-05-27T16:00:00.000-07:00

Is it too hot to grow spinach now? During the summer months, I usually grow Malabar, a heat-tolerant cousin to spinach, but this year I'm trying heat tolerant Japanese spinach varieties instead.

Komatsuna, sold by Evergreen Seeds

most closely resembles spinach in texture and shape. The flavor of Komatsuna is spicier than traditional spinach.

Okame, sold by Kitazawe Seed Company has spinach-like flavor, but has thicker, serrated leaves. Grow Okame in late spring and early fall. Though it bolts later than traditional spinach, it does bolt quicker than other Japanese spinach varieties.

Samba, sold by Kitazawa Seed Company, is fairly heat tolerant and is resistant to powdery mildew. A bit crunchier than traditional spinach, Samba must be cooked before eating.

In partial shade to full sun, plant the seeds or transplants 12-18 inches apart in rows at least 2 ft. apart. Spinach is a heavy nitrogen feeder and requires a consistent watering schedule. Excessive water encourages powdery mildew, however, so allow the top two inches of soil to dry before watering again. Drip irrigation discourages moisture related disease.

Grapes

2011-05-08T13:13:00.000-07:00

Ever wanted to grow grapes and make your own wine or jelly? It is not as difficult as you might think! You can even grow them in containers. Coming in at #12 on this year's "Dirty Dozen" list, imported grapes -- often all you can purchase at the grocery store -- might give you a little more motivation to try growing grapes.

I first tried growing grapes when I wrote Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits & Vegetables for Your Organic Garden. I grew Muscadine grapes because they grow easily in north and central Florida. I don't like them for fresh eating, but they are an excellent source of Resveratrol and also make excellent jelly. Resveratrol is the powerful antioxidant found in the skins of red grapes.

Here's a short excerpt from the book:

Michigan State Food Monitoring Program tested fresh grapes in 1991. Nine different pesticides were found on samples tested. Twenty-three percent had residues of Microbutamil and 23% had residues of Iprodione.

In 1994, the Texas Department of Agriculture conducted pesticide residue testing on grapes at wholesale outlets in Texas. Sixty-one percent of samples tested positive for more than one pesticide residue. Twenty-two pesticides were found in total...

"Muscadine grapes grow throughout the southeast, extending from central and northern Florida along the Gulf of Mexico to Texas and as far north as Missouri. Pest and disease resistant, these vines are almost always grown without chemicals. Though muscadine varieites have rather large seeds, they are prolific producers of sweet delicious fruit...

'Thompson' is suitable for desert climates. In colder climates, consider 'Reliance' or 'Canadice.'

Growing Grapes in Containers:

"Grapes have a tap root and need a very deep container. To have a chance at producing fruit, containers should be at least 15 inches deep.
Excellent drainage is especially important when growing grape vines. Add 1/4 inch of gravel to the bottom of a container with at least three drainage holes...

Site Selection

"As grapes are a vining plant, set up a trellis for them prior to planting. Grape vines are usually trained to travel horizontally so keep this in mind when selecting a location for the plants. Because the plants will quickly grow onto any support they can reach, it is not easy to move the plants to other locations during inclement weather. Select a site where the plants can grow year round. If a fence is not available, attach a trellis to a wall using supports spaced 4 to 6 inches from the wall to allow air circulation...

Optimum Growing Conditions:

Location/Sun Exposure:
Fruit production may be diminished in windy conditions. Select a protected site for growing grape vines. Muscadine varieties produce fruit in full sun to partial shade. Site selection for true grapes depends on the temperature. In hot climates, place grapes in full sun to partial shade. In cooler regions, true grapes require full sun.

Moisture: Water grape vines consistently, but allow the soil to dry between waterings. To avoid excess moisture on the leaves and subsequent fungal diseases, consider installing drip irrigation.

Temperature: Muscadine grape vines - 10 degrees Fahrenheit and warmer. True grapes - variety specific. (chart provided in the book.)

Soil: Grapes prefer well-draining soil in a pH range of 6.0-6.5 .

Fertilization: Grapes generally do not require a lot of fertilization. High levels of nitrogen will cause the plant to grow excessive foliage with little fruit production. A treatment with dilute organic balanced fertilizer is usually sufficient..."

There is much, much more about growing grapes in container in Container Gardening for Health, but I hope this blog gets you thinking about growing grapes.

Artichokes

2011-04-18T18:11:00.000-07:00

When Richard took me to meet his family the first time, his mom made fabulous stuffed artichokes. Unfortunately, I had never seen whole artichokes before and I had no idea how to eat them...it took me forever to eat the leaves and Richard dutifully scraped the choke off the heart for me. I was so wrapped up in my eating challenge, I failed to notice the rest of the family had finished eating much earlier than me and they were all patiently waiting for me to finish so they could have dessert. I'm happy to say, I not only learned how to eat them, but also how to grow and cook them.

Artichokes grow well in frost-free regions when daytime temperatures range between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit and night time temperatures range from 50 – 55 degrees Fahrenheit. Warm climate gardeners have success with 'Green Globe'. Plant early in spring after the last frost as high temperatures sometimes cause artichokes to open their buds prematurely.

Colder regions might fare better with 'Imperial Star'.

Artichokes grow to 5 feet tall and 6 feet wide. Select a planting site where they will not shade out smaller plants. Artichoke plants produce for about five years so select a spot where they do not have to be moved each season.

Artichokes grow well in sandy loam. Add about 6 inches of compost to poor soil to improve drainage before planting. Bury the roots shallowly, 2 to 3 feet apart. Keep the soil moist, but never soggy throughout the growing season. Enrich the soil with composted manure and green sand to ensure adequate supplies of nitrogen and potassium throughout the growing season.

If growing in containers, plant artichokes in containers a minimum of 20 inches deep by 36 inches wide. Containers should have at least 4 drainage holes. Add at least 1/4 inch of gravel to the bottom of the container to facilitate good drainage.

Artichokes do not grow true to their variety from seed. For reliable results, plant artichokes from root sections of your desired variety.

Harvest artichokes when they have reached their full size, but the leaves are still tight.

Cut back the plants to ground level after harvesting. Cover them with a thick layer of straw for winter protection.

Weeds, Deer, and Whiteflies in the Garden

2011-04-03T14:46:00.000-07:00

Isn't it stinky when you get sick in spring? Finally the weather is nice and you're ready to get planting when bam! along comes the pollen...and the sinus infection...and suddenly your energy level is at zero. I haven't worried too much about my plants during the two weeks I've been sick because we've had a steady drizzle of rain to keep the plants and seedlings happy.

But I decided I'd better drag myself out to the gardens today in case the weeds were taking over.

After several cups of hot sage and peppermint tea, I expended all my energy tying my shoes, but somehow made it out the door to check on my plants. Of course I felt better once I got outside.

The container garden looks absolutely beautiful. The herbs are draping over their pots, the flowers are all blooming and the strawberries are ripening.

I wasn't so happy to see the swarm of whiteflies around my potted citrus however. I sprayed them with diluted neem and a few drops of dishwashing soap. Hopefully this will be enough. I'm going to spray them with water everyday for a few days to discourage them from coming back.

For severe infestations, Neem is a good organic control for whiteflies. It only works on contact, however. That's good in one way because it doesn't leave chemical residues on your plants. Yellow sticky traps, on the other hand will continue to work for weeks. Hang them from tree branches on the level of the swarming insects where they will not be in direct sunlight. They are inexpensive and effective, but you can also make your own by spray painting cardboard with yellow paint and coating the dried paint with petroleum jelly.

In the pasture garden, things didn't look so good. Deer tracks through the rows explained why only about 50% of what I planted has grown. Why didn't the deer bother to eat the weeds that are quickly taking over the newly cultivated raised beds? I spent the day laying newspaper and covering this with landscape fabric. I find a layer of newspaper does a better job of suppressing weed growth than the fabric by itself. Tomorrow I will replant the pole beans, corn and melons. As for the deer, they seem to stay away after I've spent time in the garden.

In the end, it didn't really matter how bad my garden looked. What mattered was how much better I felt after spending a day gardening.

Now it's off to the Wellborn Community Garden to install the drip irrigation.

Asparagus

2011-02-23T17:21:00.000-08:00

My brother has a fabulous spring asparagus recipe. It's really simple, but fresh picked asparagus doesn't need a complicated recipe to taste delicious. One night, I left the asparagus under the broiler a minute too long. The result was a slightly charred, crunchy, nutty-flavored asparagus dish. I don't think I'll serve it to company, but my family does like blackened asparagus!

My brother's asparagus recipe (Thanks, Greg):
Wash and pat dry pencil thin (or thinner) spears. Lay them in a single layer on a broiler pan that has been greased with olive oil.
Drizzle the spears with a teaspoon of olive oil.
Squeeze half a fresh lemon over the spears
Broil for 3 to 4 minutes until spears are just beginning to soften.
Sprinkle fresh parmesan-reggiano cheese shavings over the top and serve.

For the most delicate flavor and texture, you will need to grow your own asparagus or raid a neighbor's garden. Growing asparagus in Florida and other parts of the southeast, however, is only a task I recommend for strong-willed gardeners. Asparagus requires a period of stress -- cold weather or drought -- to enter dormancy. Since a dormant period is necessary for a hardy asparagus crop, you can understand why a Florida asparagus crop might not be worth the effort you put into growing this perennial. North and Central Florida gardeners will have better luck growing asparagus than south Florida gardeners.

Remember, asparagus is a perennial so prepare a rich soil in a place you will not be plowing for the next four to five years. A deep bed of compost mixed with manure works well for asparagus. Select a sunny spot, preferably in an area where you can control moisture levels. The ferns get quite tall and should not be cut back the first year so select an area where your asparagus won't shade out smaller plants.

Be sure to cultivate the soil well and remove all weeds before planting. Asparagus does not tolerate competition with weeds.

To grow asparagus in the southeast, plant one to two year old crowns in the spring. Plant them in 6 inch deep furrows about 12 inches apart. Cover with two inches of soil. Add more soil to the plants throughout the growing season as they grow taller.

If it doesn't rain, water the plants thoroughly once weekly until June. Then water the plants just once every other week (If it is raining, don't water them at all.) Hopefully, your plants will not be deluged with rain and you will have simulated drought conditions for your asparagus. If your plants did not experience a summer drought, pray for a cold winter. In July, return to watering the plants thoroughly once weekly.

After year one, you can cut the ferns back in late winter after they have died. The ferns are infamous for harboring asparagus beetle so its better to burn them than to place them in a compost pile.

In year two, harvest a few of the larger spears, but allow most of the asparagus to continue growing.

In year three, enjoy your first productive season. It is better to snap the 6 inch spears than to cut them.

I'm growing Jersey Supreme. It is a mostly male asparagus cultivar and is heat tolerant to zone 9.

How Do You Grow Strawberries?

2011-02-10T18:58:00.000-08:00

How do you grow strawberries? Do you grow them in hanging pots? Do you grow your strawberries upside down? Right-side up? In raised beds? Up high? Down low? Dr. Seuss could have written a book on the many ways strawberry plants are grown!

Of all the fruits and vegetables I grow, strawberries are my favorite. They give my family the biggest nutritional benefit while requiring the smallest amount of effort in the garden. Did you know strawberries are third on the list of fruits and vegetables with the highest pesticide residues (even after they are washed)? (For more information on fruits and vegetables with high pesticide residues, consider purchasing my book: Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits and Vegetables for Your Organic Garden )

Strawberry Growing Tips

I usually buy strawberry crowns from Peaceful Valley every fall, but I'm going to try Mountain Valley Growers next because they sell organic strawberry plants. I've purchased seeds and plants from both companies and have always been pleased with their service and quality.

Extend the Season

Grow three main types of strawberries to extend the season as long as possible.

-June Bearing Strawberry Varieties produce the largest crop, but they produce it all at once. Also called short-day varieties, june bearing strawberries flower only in cool temperatures and when day length is 14 hours or less.
I'm going to try growing 'Sweet Charlie' this year for my June Bearing crop. This small, container-friendly cultivar grows well in the southeast and has good resistance to Florida diseases. I've also grown 'Camarosa' successfully in North Florida.

-Day Neutral Strawberry Varieties produce small amounts of fruit throughout the growing season.
I grow Albion for my day neutral cultivar. It's very hardy in Florida's climate and tolerates container gardening quite well.

-Everbearer Strawberry Varieties produce one to two crops during the spring and late summer/early fall. They flower regardless of day length in daytime temperatures below 89 degrees Fahrenheit. Cooler climates may also get a crop or two during the summer. Everbearer strawberries don't produce runners are a good choice for container gardeners. I'm going to trial 'Seascape' this year. It's a low chill cultivar and produces large deep red, very sweet berries. What else could anyone want in a strawberry?
Everbearers are a type of Day Neutral strawberry. Woodland strawberry varieties are also everbearing. They produce tiny, candy-sweet strawberries.

Containers: I've grown strawberries in a variety of containers. I have several plants growing in an earth box right now. I have especially good luck with strawberry plants in hanging, self-watering containers. Strawberry plants will grow in just about any container, including herb pots and whiskey barrels. Just remember to add drainage holes to whatever container you select. Strawberry plants are shallow-rooted and only require 6 to 8 inches of soil, but allow at least 8 inches to 10 inches in diameter for growth.

Soil: Strawberries prefer rich, loamy soil. Standard organic potting mixes are usually adequate, but some researchers recommend adding well-rotted leaf mold to the soil before planting. I usually stir in about 1 cup of worm compost per plant into potting soil.

Planting Crowns: Its important to plant strawberry plants correctly or they may become susceptible to rot. Bury the plant so the crown, the junction between the roots and the leaf stems, is exactly at the soil line.

Moisture: Strawberries are prone to moisture-related disease so place strawberry pots in a well-ventilated location protected from excessive rain. So far I've not had issues with Florida's high humidity levels. This might be in-part because all my strawberry plants are bottom watered. Because strawberry plants are shallow rooted, they die quickly in drought conditions. Drip irrigation attached to a moisture sensitive timer is another irrigation option.

Fertilization: Side dress with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer, such as blood meal, if young plants appear light green or stunted. Fertilize again with a balanced organic fertilizer one month before plants start to bud.

Pests & Diseases: If you control the amount of moisture that comes in contact with strawberry plant leaves, you will eliminate most diseases from your strawberry garden. Placing copper strips around the bottom of the plants and Remay row covers over the plants eliminates most pests. Just remember to remove row covers when the plants flower. I admit I haven't tried either of these measures on my strawberry plants. Growing them in hanging containers in a screened enclosure eliminates most pest threats. Without an enclosure, your most common predator will likely be birds. I believe they used to circle my strawberry plants waiting until the berries were just the right shade of red before they flew in to consume the whole crop in minutes. Netting solved the bird problem, but made gardening a little more challenging.

That's about all it takes to grow strawberries in containers. Your only other challenge will be getting your family to bring the strawberries into the house without eating them all on the way.

Broccoli

2011-02-10T10:59:00.000-08:00

Broccoli is an easy cool weather vegetable to grow in the garden. I planted De Ciccio and Spigariello broccoli seed varieties about 3 weeks ago and I am transplanting them to bigger, 4 inch, containers this week.

You can buy these broccoli seed varieties at http://www.gourmetseeds.com.

DeCiccio is an European heirloom. It grows 2-3 feet tall, light green stalks and has 3-4 inch bluish-green central heads. Since its a pretty big plant, I'm going to plant it in containers 8 inches deep by 36 inches wide.

On Spigariello, the leaves are more prized than the head. Another European variety, Spigariello has thin, narrow leaves on a medium sized plant. The leaves are often eaten like spinach. Spigariello heads are small and re-sprout when cut. This cultivar is somewhat smaller than DeCiccio so I'll plant it in 8 inch deep by 24 inch wide containers.

Research suggests broccoli produces the highest yields when plants are spaced 7 inches apart.

Broccoli grows best in moist, but well-draining, rich soil. Add up to 1/3 composted manure to potting soil. Mulch to retain moisture and keep the soil cool as spring temperatures rise.

Tomatoes: Starting from Seed

2011-02-06T10:14:00.000-08:00

It's time to grow tomatoes! Plant your tomatoes from seed now and transplant them into the garden when the threat of frost has passed. Here's a tomato seed starting primer to help you navigate the early stages of tomato gardening:

Tomato Seed Packets
Tomato seed packets and tomato seed catalogs use an alphabet soup of abbreviations and unfamiliar words to describe disease and pest resistance. The following terms are the most critical to understand:

Whether you grow heirloom tomato varieties or hybrids, select cultivars carefully. The letters VFNAT on the tomato seed packet indicate resistance to Verticilium Wilt (V), Fusarium Wilt(F), Southern Root Nematode (N), Blight (A), Tobacco Mosaic Virus (T). (In Florida, Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus(TSWV) and Bacterial Wilt(BW) create the majority of tomato problems.) Heirloom tomatoes carry some natural resistance (or were bred over generations by farmers) to many of these diseases while hybrids are specifically bred for tomato disease resistance. Check with your county extension office to determine what diseases are prevalent in your region and ensure the seeds you buy are resistant to these diseases.

Indeterminate Tomatoes vs. Determinate Tomatoes
There are two main types of tomatoes: indeterminate and determinate. Indeterminate tomatoes produce fruit all season long. Determinate tomato varieties produce all their fruit at one time.
Most of the diseases mentioned above affect indeterminate tomato cultivars more frequently than determinate tomato varieties.
Indeterminate tomato varieties grow much taller than determinate varieties. If you are growing tomatoes in containers, determinate tomato varieties will be easier to manage.

Seed Starting
I start germinating tomato seeds 6 weeks before the last frost. I use an organic seed starting medium consisting of 1 part perlite and 1 part organic, sterile potting mix. It is not necessary to germinate tomato seeds in soil. I use soil because I do not always transplant seedlings as quickly as I should. The soil ensures the transplants get a little nutrition while they are waiting for me to come home.

In recent seasons, I have been using recycled foam egg cartons for seed starting containers. If you can get the cardboard cartons, all the better. Other recycled container prospects include plastic blueberry or strawberry clam shells. Fill the cartons with damp seed starting mix. Plant the tomato seeds at a depth of three times the diameter of the seed. Gently firm the soil and close the lid.

Place the carton of planted tomato seeds in a warm environment (75 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit) and leave the carton closed for three to five days. After three days, open the lid to see if the tomatoes are sprouting. If sprouts are visible, cut the lid away from the carton. This will become a water tray. CAREFULLY, pick up the carton and poke a drainage hole in each of the cells. I use a shisk-a-bob stick or a pencil. Fill the tray with water and place the carton on top of the tray in a well-lit, warm location.

Light
Tomato seedlings must receive at least 4 hours of direct sunlight a day. If you can place your seedlings in a southern window, this may be adequate. My seedlings usually require supplemental light. You can obtain grow-light bulbs from your local hardware store. These screw into regular light sockets. Seedlings in need of additional light will grow very tall on long, thin stems. You may need to start over if they begin to get so tall they fall over.

Temperatures
Tomato plants are most productive when daytime temperatures range from 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit and night-time temperatures range from about 62 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit.

Ventilation
Ventilation is critical to prevent "damping off", a bacterial disease, in young seedlings. (I also find bottom-watering helps control this disease.) Place a fan near, but not directly on your tray of seedlings. If you live in a warm climate, such as Florida, you can place young seedlings outside for a few hours a day to ensure they get adequate ventilation as well as light. Just remember to bring them in each evening before temperatures start to fall.

Transplanting
Transplant tomato seedlings to larger containers when they have at least two sets of "true" leaves. (The first set of leaves doesn't count!) Some transplants must be transplanted to incrementally larger containers every few weeks before being transplanted into the garden. However, I find it is best to place tomatoes directly in 6 inch or 8 inch containers when I transplant the first time and to leave them in these containers until I transplant into the garden. I tried transplanting from cells to 4 inch and 8 inch containers one year and compared the difference. Seedlings planted in the larger containers grew faster and stronger than those transplanted into smaller containers. Recycled yogurt containers are the perfect size. Just be sure to place drainage holes in the bottom.

Lemon Tree

2010-12-20T05:19:00.000-08:00

So dance now in this bountiful garden of the lemon tree.
For all we have left in the end are our memories.
MPCooper, Cherish the Lemon Tree

If you are still looking for a unique holiday gift, consider a lemon tree. Back in the days when I sold citrus trees, I transcribed many messages of love and a few of repentance to accompany gifts of lemon trees. The hardest messages to write were those to accompany memorial trees.

Whether it is because of their bright colors in the dead of winter, their bitter-sweet flavor, or maybe the symbolism of the tree itself, lemon trees have a place in our homes and in our hearts.

I grow Dwarf Meyer Lemon, Improved because I like the sweeter flavor of this lemon variety. It is perfect for making preserved lemons. (If you haven't tried preserved lemons, email me for the recipe. They add a delicious salty/tangy flavor to chicken and fish dishes.)

Lemon trees are easy to grow and reward you consistently with fruit in late fall and early winter. Dwarf varieties grow well in containers and can be grown indoors. This makes it possible to grow lemon trees anywhere.

A few sources for lemon trees are included at the end of this blog. If your state does not permit importation of trees from these growers, ask your local nurseries for reputable tree sources.

Growing Lemon Trees:
Here's a series of articles I wrote for ehow on growing lemon trees. A more general article on growing citrus can be found on my website, The Gourmet Gardener

Growing Lemon Trees Organically
Pruning Lemon Trees
Planting Lemon Trees

Lemon Tree Sources:

Tampa, Florida
Harris Citrus
I've been to this farm and highly recommend them for Florida buyers.

Winters, California
Four Winds Growers

Mission, Texas
RGV Nursery

Blueberries

2010-11-30T10:38:00.000-08:00

I associate blueberries with hot summer days and the Blueberry festival in Wellborn. If you are interested in growing your own blueberries instead of picking someone elses, now is the time to prepare your soil for spring planting.
Blueberry plants are picky about drainage and soil pH. Amend your soil now to reap a better harvest this summer!
Here are links to articles I've written about planting blueberries. Have Fun!
Container Blueberry Varieties
How to Acidify Soil for Blueberries
Blueberry Plants for Northeast Florida
Diseases in Rabbiteye Blueberry Plants

Articles with Gardening Tips

2010-11-22T06:14:00.000-08:00

If you follow our Facebook link, you know I've been writing for Demand Media these days. How-to articles are distributed to EHow and other websites. I'd like to be spending more time on my blog and website, but writing for others is paying my bills! So--here are links to a few of the articles I've written. I hope you'll find them useful.
Recommended Spacing for Dwarf Apple Trees
Organic Pest Control for Citrus
Growing Lettuce in Florida
Amending Soil in North Florida Gardens
When to Plant Winter Harvest Vegetables
The Best Fertilizer for Carrots

Fall Planting in the South East

2010-09-16T13:02:00.000-07:00

Looking for seeds to grow in Florida and other parts of the Southeast? Try our store: Gourmet Gardener Store
It's a beautiful day in North Florida today. Temperatures were in the 60's this morning and I don't think we've hit 90 yet. With cooler temps comes the urge to resume gardening. The community garden in Wellborn is plowed and ready for fall planting. A list of what we'll be planting this weekend can be found at the end of this post.
I moved all the existing herb bowls, olive, bay, citrus, and pear trees and tidied up my concrete pool deck in order to make room for two new raised beds and a trellis in the container garden area.
With two books to finish writing before spring, I think I will let the garden in my pasture rest for the winter under a bed of straw.
Here's a list of what we are planting this fall and links to garden companies who are selling the seeds/plants. We select our varieties using the following criteria:
-The variety must taste good and meet my family's cooking/eating preferences.
-It should withstand growing conditions in Florida
-Seeds/plants should be obtainable in the U.S. Organics are preferred.
-It should grow well in containers/small space gardens.
Fall Planting Selections from The Gourmet Gardener:

Beans:
Bush-Blue Lake Seeds of Change, Fin de Bagnols Seed Savers Exchange
Pole-Kentucky Wonder Hometown Seeds
Beets:Tall Top, Detroit Dark Seeds of Change
Broccoli: Raab Seeds of Change DeCicco Johnny Seeds
Carrots:Chanteney Seeds of Change, Scarlett Nantes Seeds of Change
Cucumbers:Ashley Reimer Seeds
Endive: Tres Fine Maraichere Seeds of Change
Kale:Vates Southern Exposure
Lettuce:
Crisp-Nevada Johnny Seeds
Looseleaf-Red Sails Johnny Seeds
Oakleaf-Salad Bowl Johnny Seeds
Romaine-Parris Island Cos Johnny Seeds
Onions:
Bulbing-Granex Henry Fields (Will plant in the ground.)
Bunching-White Lisbon Reimer Seeds
Shallots-French Grey Kitchen Garden Seeds
Pumpkins-Winter Luxury (Will plant in the ground.) Johnny Seeds
Spinach-Melody, Bloomsdale Urban Farmer
Strawberry-Chandler, Camarosa Peaceful Valley Garden Supply --

Some of these, such as Camarosa Strawberries, Melody Spinach and Nevada Lettuce are old favorites. Others, such as Winter Luxury Pumpkins and Ashley Cucumbers are new to us. If you plant them, feel free to make comments on how well they grow for you and what you think of their flavor.

Aquaponics

2010-08-11T19:13:00.000-07:00

Ok, so most of us have seen the aquaponics project at Epcot. Everytime I see it, I commit to starting a small tank of my own when I return home, but then I never get around to it. Guess what? I'm finally going to do it.

Aquaponics is an integrated system with fish and plants. The fish provide nutrients for the plants. The plants return the favor by filtering the water for the fish. Shouldn't all life be so in sync?

Ok, so the system is slightly more complicated than this, but is certainly do-able for home gardeners & fish lovers.

This blog will be short on details because I'm still learning. I'll get more specific in later blogs.

We're going to start with four 55 gallon food grade plastic barrels. (Stay away from chemical laden black barrels. The red and blue barrels are usually food grade.)

Basically, we'll cut out the sides of two barrels and lay them horizontally on my plant stand. I'll fill these with gravel and plant lettuce starts in these planters. On the patio next to my plant stand, I'll set up a barrel, vertically, for the tilapia. We chose tilapia because they withstand our Florida weather conditions nicely. The tilapia barrel will contain an aquarium pump and aerator.

Water from the tilapia barrel will pump into a barrel of gravel and red worms. The gravel will filter out large sediment from the fish waste and the worms will feed on this waste. Once again, WORMS RULE!! During this stage, nitrites from the fish are converted by bacteria to nitrogen (plant food!)

From the worm/gravel barrel, the nitrogen rich water will flow into the planters. The plants will filter the water before it flows back into the fish tank.

If any of my readers have an aquaponics system, I hope you'll answer the following questions for me:

-How is the composted material from the red worms harvested? Or does this just flow into the planters? If so, wouldn't the worm castings clog the tubing as much as the fish waste?

-What is the most humane method of harvesting the fish? Call me a weenie, but I just don't like killing animals.

So that's my big project for August. I bet I'm not the only person who likes working on new projects...keeps life interesting!

For more information on growing vegetables in containers, consider purchasing my book: Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits & Vegetables for Your Organic Garden

Seed Counts

2010-07-23T10:53:00.000-07:00

Isn't it annoying when seed companies list their inventory in ounces instead of seed numbers? After years of clicking through to equivalency tables, I have taped a list of approximate seed counts to my desk. This year, I've added a column to my list. It tells me how many plants I need to feed a family of four. It's so convenient!

If you'd like to do the same, print this list and get out your tape.

Number of Seeds per Ounce/Number of Plants Needed to Feed an Average Family of Four:

Beans, Bush: 50/48
Beans, Lima: 100/40-50
Beans, Pole: 100/30-40
Beets: 1280/40
Broccoli: 9,000/15
Cantaloupe: 1,000/4
Cauliflower: 9,000/8
Corn, Sweet: 150/72
Cucumber: 1,100/8
Eggplant: 6,500/4
Peas: 90/24
Peppers: 4,500/10
Pumpkin: 200/3
Spinach: 2,800/20
Squash, Summer: 300/3
Squash, Winter: 120/4-6
Tomato: 9,500/15
Watermelon: 300/4

I have many other seeds on my list. Email if you have questions about seeds not listed. gourmetgardener@windstream.net

Note: I've gathered these numbers from numerous seed companies over the years. Where numbers haven't matched my personal findings, I've substituted my own calculations. Some of my more recent sources include Burrell Seeds , The Free Library, Corbett Report, About.com , and Hume Seeds.

For those who like to garden organically or garden in containers, consider purchasing my book: Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits & Vegetables for Your Organic Garden

Peeling Tomatoes

2010-06-07T19:56:00.000-07:00

Mmmm! I love fresh tomatoes. My husband and I walked back from the garden yesterday evening with a 3 gallon bucket full. No one in my family complains about the many tomato recipes I cook this time of year. They seem to especially like rigatoni with fresh tomatoes and basil.
This dish requires peeled, but not seeded, tomatoes. I learned to skin tomatoes from Marcella Hazan's Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking. It is actually pretty simple.

Step One: Fill a pot of water deep enough to cover tomatoes and bring it to a boil.

Step Two: Gently drop in tomatoes.
Step Three: Leave tomatoes in the boiling water for 1 minute.
Step Four: Carefully Remove tomatoes from water with slotted spoon.
Step Five: Let cool for a few minutes. The inside of the tomatoes will be VERY hot.

Step Six: Cut a small 'V' in the top of the tomato with a sharp paring knife.

Step Seven: Grasp the 'V' and gently pull it down the side of the tomato. The peel will slide right off.

The recipe I use for fresh tomato sauce is really simple. The just- harvested tomatoes are the highlight of the dish. For a family of four -- 3 big guys and me -- I peel and chop 4 pounds of fresh tomatoes. No matter how many I prepare, it's never enough. Add these to a skillet with 4 TB of real butter, two cloves of crushed garlic, and an onion cut in half. (When I'm feeling health conscious, I cut the butter in half and add 2 TB. olive oil.) Simmer 45 minutes. Add 1/2 cup torn Basil in the last 5 minutes. Discard the onion. Season with a little salt and black pepper if desired. Add in cooked rigatoni and sprinkle with freshly grated parmesan.
Recipe adapted from Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking by Marcella Hazan.

For information on growing vegetables in containers, see my book: Container Gardening for Health

Vote for the Wellborn Garden

2010-05-21T05:47:00.000-07:00

Hi everyone. This is a short entry to ask you all to support our efforts to plant a community garden in Wellborn, Fl by voting for our garden on Justmeans.com (http://www.justmeans.com/contestidea?ideaid=NDky). We can win up to $50,000 for the garden if our garden idea gets the most votes.

The garden was started in the foundation of a cabinet maker's shop after 2 teens burned it down to divert attention from another robbery. Wellborn is a small town with few other businesses. The fire left a big black hole in the center of town. From the ashes, we've planted a community garden.

You can help us expand the services we offer from the garden by voting! Please take just a moment to visit the above link and vote for our garden.

Thanks!

Organic Pest & Disease Control

2010-05-08T18:52:00.000-07:00

Here's an excerpt from my book, Container Gardening for Health regarding pest and disease control. In the book, charts identifying pests and diseases follow this segment.
The reduction of pests and diseases is a big advantage
container gardeners have over traditional gardeners. Follow these few simple
rules and you will reduce the risk of pests and diseases even further:
Begin with healthy soil. Plants are better able to fight off diseases and
overcome pest damage when they have all the necessary nutrients they
need for growth. I never re-use soil. Soil from spent plants can be spread
on the lawn or dumped back into the compost bin.
Be sure that compost for use in container gardens reaches 105º–145ºF during
the composting process. This will kill many pests and diseases. Soil
with visible destructive pests should be discarded.
Always use clean containers.Wash used containers with a dilute bleach
solution before reusing.
Keep garden area free of debris and spent produce. Pests like to feed on
spoiled food and take shelter under dead plants and weeds.
Look for pests daily. They can usually be found on plants early in the morning,late in the evening, and just after a rain. Look carefully! Many pests camouflage quite well on stems, leaves and flowers. Remember to look under the leaves and remove any eggs.
Except during times of pollination, use floating row covers. These can be purchased to fit containers. Many pests hatch in the soil and then fly onto plants to lay eggs. Covering plants prevent
the continuation of pests’ life cycle. Continue to examine plants for pests even if you use row covers.
Control moisture. Most diseases affecting container plants are related to
moisture levels. Frequently, gardeners over-water plants. Inexpensive moisture
meters can be purchased at your local garden center. Remember to
dig down below the crust of the soil to check for moisture before watering.
If leaves are cupped, the plant usually needs water. If leaves are limp and
pointing down, they may have been over-watered.
Become acquainted with beneficial insects. Encouraging beneficial insects
in your garden is like employing your own personal 24 hour bug control
service.

Organic Pest Control for Beginning Gardeners & Upcoming Garden Workshops

2010-03-10T14:19:00.000-08:00

When I first started gardening, I found pest control to be the most vexing of all challenges in the garden. I've never been willing to spray my garden with pesticides so there were seasons when the bugs had a better harvest than my family. I remember coming in to the house one day and exclaiming "pests have no values!" Really -- its true. I was always willing to share with them, but they greedily took a bite out of every tomato. Luckily, my good friend Leslie Kurtz (Kurtz and Sons Dairy) introduced me to the topic of organic pest control and helped ease my frustrations with those pesky pests.
The principle of understanding nature is at the heart of all organic gardening. Your very first step in creating an organic pest control program is in understanding the nature of pests.
If you spot Colorado Potato Beetles on your plants, for example, try to interrupt their life cycle. Colorado potato beetles pupate in the soil during the winter and emerge in spring to mate and feed on host plants. The female lays about 2 dozen orange-yellow eggs on the underside of leaves for several days. She can lay up to 500 eggs in a months time! Larvae hatch and begin feeding on foliage about a week after eggs are laid. In 2-3 weeks, larvae return to the grown to burrow. They emerge as fully grown beetles in about 7 days. The adult beetle feeds on roots for several days before the female begins laying eggs and begins the cycle anew. The effects on your plants will be dramatic stunting of the plant and skeletonizing of the roots.

What's an organic gardener to do to stop this cycle? Be as aggressive as the beetle at every stage of their development!

-Dig trenches at a 45 deg. angle and line with black plastic between garden rows. This blocks the beetle's journey from the soil to the leaves. Beetles have difficulty navigating on an angle.
-Use floating row covers, such as Remay, to provide a physical barrier in early spring. I have found this method to be the most useful. You'll need to remove the barriers when it is time for your plants to pollinate.
-Inspect leaves for eggs when weather warms. (Be careful not to remove the eggs of beneficial insects.)
-Remove any plant debris that might provide cover for the beetles as they make their journey back down into the soil.
-Manually remove adult beetles.
-Encourage predatory insects by planting pollen and nectar host plants.
-Last resort: If the infestation is threatening the majority of your harvest, apply Neem or Pyola at the dilution rates specified for vegetable plants on the bottle.
Note: Container vegetable gardeners do not face as many challenges with pests as growers who garden in the ground. For more information about organic vegetable gardening, see my book: Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits & Vegetable for Your Organic Garden.
The bottom line: Know your pests! Study the little scoundrels and get between them and your plants.
In my next blog, I'll cover organic prevention and control of disease in the garden.
For my local readers, I'll be giving a workshop on herbs at the Madison Garden Club on Saturday, March 13 at 11 AM. Then I'll be off to Borders Book Store in Gainesville to give a seed starting workshop/book signing at 4 P.M. It will be a busy day. Hope to see you some where along the way.

Easiest Veggies to Grow and Lake City Home & Garden Show

2010-03-05T07:22:00.000-08:00

This is the first in a series of blogs for beginner gardeners.
I'm frequently asked which vegetables are the easiest to grow from seed. My favorites are beans, cucumbers, pumpkins, summer squash, radishes and lettuce. These can be planted directly in the garden and are vigorous growers.

Variety Selection: Select varieties with resistance to pests and diseases found in your region. Call your local agriculture extension office for recommendations. It's fine to branch out and try a few that aren't recommended for your area too. Sometimes you'll get lucky! I like fin de bagnols, for example. These slim green bean are tender and delicious. They are recommended for northern climates, but grow fine for me in Florida.
Grow in Season: Sometimes it is fun to trick mother nature into giving you beans in December, but generally you will have more success in the garden if you grow at optimal planting times.
Sun: All of these vegetables require at least 4-6 hours of full sun. Lettuce can be grown in partial shade and will even fare better in partial shade in warm climates.
Moisture: Lightly water all the above plants on a daily basis until they have two sets of leaves. Once established, beans, cucumbers, pumpkins, and summer squash all need to receive about 1" of water a week. Radishes and lettuce require light daily waterings throughout the growing season.
Soil: Beans and peas are nitrogen fixers. They can take nitrogen from the soil and convert it for their growth needs. Other vegetables require nitrogen for steady growth. I add fish meal or kelp to my garden for a boost of essential and micro nutrients. All vegetables benefit from the addition of compost to the soil. Compost adds structure and micro-organisms to the soil.
The back of any plant packet will give you advice on sowing the seeds so I won't bore you here with this information.
It is hard to go wrong when growing beans, cucumbers, pumpkins, summer squash, radishes and lettuce. The above guidelines will give your plants a good start. Once your plants are up and growing, you'll need to be vigilant about pest control, however. More about that in my next blog.
Lake City Home & Garden Show It's this weekend! We'll be there -- inside where it is warm! Please stop by and see us.

Workshop-Tallahassee

2010-03-03T19:58:00.000-08:00

Anyone in the area --

I'm giving a workshop tomorrow night at New Leaf Market in Tallahassee. Details

Creating Indoor Light for Seed Starting

2010-02-19T06:28:00.000-08:00

The groundhog has made his move -- we all know there is only 6 more weeks of winter and the seed starting fever is in full swing. Kitchen countertops, television cabinets, ping pong tables have all been cleared -- all flat spaces will be used for seed starting for the remainder of winter. We've pulled out the bags of used yogurt containers, blended our seed starting mix, and read all that tiny print on seed packages.
Our dreams of an early spring garden can die, however, if indoor lighting is not given enough attention. If your seedlings are tall and "leggy," they probably lack adequate light. Here is a quick primer on creating light for seedlings.
Natural Light A south facing sunny window may provide enough lighting for your seedlings, but I usually find my indoor plants need a little more light than mother nature provides. If you have a good window, you may only need to add a reflective material, such as mylar, to give your plants a boost. If your flats are stashed away in a basement or an area with low visibility, consider painting the floors and walls for greater light reflection. Flat white paint is said to provide more light reflection than other types of paint.
Grow Lights Light from incandescant bulbs may be an adequate supplement to natural lighting. Incandescant lights are not especially efficient and produce a lot of heat, however.
High pressure sodium lights don't have the necessary color range to provide light exclusively, but are often used by professional growers as a supplement to natural lighting.
Flourescent Lighting is usually adequate for home gardeners needs. Compact and High Output flourescent lights come in both cool and warm versions. High Output flourescents are often preferred for color range and coverage.
I have not tried LED grow lights yet, but I believe they will be used widely by gardeners in coming seasons. LED grow lights have two red and two blue wave lengths that correspond to the chlorphyll peaks of plants. They produce very little heat and do not consume as much energy as other lighting.
With adequate lighting, your plants will grow strong, healthy stems and leaves. They'll be ready to transplant as soon as the sun melts that last freeze.

Florida Vegetable Seed Varieties and Sources

2010-02-12T08:36:00.000-08:00

August 3, 2011-Update: The Gourmet Gardener is now selling seeds for Florida and other parts of the Southeast. Click here to enter our store: Gourmet Gardener Store
Hi everyone-
I've received many inquiries about seeds/plants this year. Given my busy workshop/book signing schedule, I've decided not to retail (except at workshops) this year. For my Florida gardening pals, here is a list of recommended vegetable seed varieties and sources. Note: I'm having difficulty activating the links for seed sources on Blogger. The list with active links can be found on my website: The Gourmet Gardener.

Florida’s warm, humid climate is ideal for growing pests and fungal diseases. The following vegetable varieties have natural or bred resistance to the most common garden challenges in Florida. Much of this list comes directly from The University of Florida’s Institute of Food and Agriculture Science (IFAS) recommendations. We recommend you contact them for information specific to your county’s growing conditions.
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/topic_hs_minor_vegetables

Note: Though we cannot guarantee satisfaction, we believe the sources listed below to be reliable. If you have any comments regarding personal experience with these companies, please email us at gginfo@windstream.net
Beans, Bush
Snap: Bush Blue Lake, Contender, Roma II, Provider, Cherokee Wax
Source: The Cook’s Garden
Shell: Horticultural, Pinto, Red Kidney, Black Bean, Navy
Beans, Pole
McCaslan, Kentucky Wonder, Blue Lake
Source: Henry Fields
Beans, Lima
Fordhook 242, Henderson, Jackson Wonder, Dixie (Speckled) Butterpea, Early Thorogreen
Source: Southern Exposure Seed Exchange
Beets
Tall Top, Early Wonder, Detroit Dark Red, Cylindra, Red Ace, Yellow Detroit
American Meadows
Broccoli
Early Green, Early Dividend, Green Sprouting/Calabrese, Waltham, Packman, De Cicco, Broccoli Raab (Rapini)
Wood Prairie Farm
Cabbage
Rio Verde, Flat Dutch, Round Dutch, Wakefield types, Copenhagen Market, Savoy, Red Acre
Next Harvest

Cantaloupes and Honeydews
Athena, Ambrosia, Galia (green flesh)
Henry Fields
Carrots
Imperator, Nantes, Danvers, Chantenay
Seeds of Change
Cauliflower
Snowball Strains, Snow Crown, Brocoverde
Millington Seeds
Celery We don’t recommend celery for Florida gardeners. Try Utah Strains for limited success. The herb, Celery Leaf, is a good alternative.
Next Harvest
Chinese Cabbage
Michihili, Bok Choy, Napa, Baby Bok Choy, Pak-choi, Joi Choi
Sustainable Seed Co
Collards
Georgia, Georgia Southern, Top Bunch, Vates
Seeds of Change
Corn, sweet
Silver Queen (white), How Sweet It Is (white), Sweet Ice (white), Sweet Riser (yellow), Early Sunglow (yellow)
Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

Cucumbers
Slicers: Sweet Success, Poinsett, Ashley, MarketMore 76, Straight Eight, Space Master
Henry Fields
Picklers: Liberty Hybrid, Eureka, Boston Pickling
Reimer Seeds
Eggplant
Black Beauty, Dusky, Long, Ichiban, Cloud Nine (white)
Millington Seeds
Endive/Escarole
Endive:Green Curled Ruffec
Escarole: Batavian Broadleaf
Jung Seeds
Kale
Vates Dwarf Blue Curled, Tuscan, Winterbor, Redbor
Southern Exposure Seed Exchange
Kohlrabi
Early White Vienyna, Purple Vienna
Henry Fields
Lettuce
Crisphead: Great Lakes
Butterhead: Ermosa, Bibb, Tom Thumb, Buttercrunch,
Loose Leaf: Simpson types, Salad Bowl, Red Sails, New Red Fire
Oak Leaf: Salad Bowl, Royal Oak
Romaine: Parris Island Cos, Outredgeous
Sustainable Seed Company
Mustard
Southern Giant Curled, Florida Broad Leaf, Tendergreen, Giant Red, Green Wave, Mizuna
Reimer Seeds

Okra
Clemson Spineless, Emerald, Annie Oakley II, Cajun Delight
Reimer Seeds
Onions
Bulbing: Granex (yellow)
Bunching (Green): Evergreen Bunching, White Lisbon Bunching
The Onion Shed
Leeks American Flag
Reimer Seeds
Peas English or Snow
Wando, Green Arrow, Sugar Snap, Oregon Sugarpod II
Victory Seeds
Peas, Southern (Field Peas, Cow Peas, Crowder Peas, Cream Peas)
California Blackeye No.5, Pinkeye Purple Hull, Texas Cream
Victory Seeds
Peppers
Bell: California Wonder, Red Knight, Big Bertha
Local Harvest
Other Sweet: Sweet Banana, Giant Marconi, Mariachi, Cubanelle
Victory Seeds
Jalapeno: Early Jalapeno, Jalapeno M
Specialty Hot: Cherry Bomb, Hungarian Hot Wax, Big Chile II, Numex, Ancho, Thai, Anaheim Chile, Long Cayenne, Habanero, Caribbean Red Habanero
Sustainable Seed Company
Potato
Red Pontiac, Yukon Gold, Gold Rush
Ed Hume Seeds
Potatoes, Sweet
Centennial, Beauregard, Vardaman
Henry Fields
Pumpkin
Big Max, Connecticut Field, Prizewinner, Jack Be Little, Jack O Lantern
Sustainable Seed Co
Radish
Cherry Belle, White Icicle, Sparkler, Champion, Daikon
Millington Seed Co.
Spinach
Melody, Bloomsdale Longstanding, Tyee, Space
Reimer Seeds
Squash
Summer: Early Prolific Straightneck, Summer Crookneck, Early White Scallop
Southern Exposure Seed Exchange
Winter: Spaghetti, Table King, Table Queen & Table Ace (Acorn), Waltham, Early Butternut (Butternut)
Wood Prairie Farm
Zucchini: Cocozelle, Spineless Beauty, Black Beauty
Seeds of Change

Strawberry
Chandler, Oso Grande, Sweet Charlie, Selva, Camarosa, Festival
Mountain Valley Growers
Swiss Chard
Bright Lights, Bright Yellow, Fordhook Giant, Lucullus, Red Ruby
Seeds of Change
Tomatoes
Large Fruit: Celebrity, Heat Wave II, Better Boy, Beefmaster, BHN444-Southern Star*, Amelia*, BHN 640*
Small Fruit: Sweet 100, Juliet, Red Grape, Sun Gold, Sugar Snack, Sweet Baby Girl
Heirloom: Green Zebra, Cherokee Purple, Eva Purple Ball, Brandywine, Mortgage Lifter, Delicious
*Resistant to TSWV (Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus)
Totally Tomatoes
Turnips
Roots: Purple Top White Globe
Roots and Greens: Purple Top
Greens: Seven Top, Shogoin
Henry Fields
Watermelon
Large: Jubilee (aka FL Giant), Crimson Sgweet, Charleston Grey 133
Small: Sugar Baby, Mickeylee

For information about growing vegetables in containers, consider purchasing my book:Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits & Vegetables for Your Organic Garden

Information Sources:
1.Document is SP103 Horticultural Sciences Department, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida. Original publication date, December 1991. Revised March 1994. Reviewed May 2003. Revised February 2009. Visit the EDIS Web site at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu.
2.
J.M. Stephens, professor emeritus, Horticultural Sciences Department; Sydney Park Brown, extension associate professor, Environmental Horticulture Department, and consumer horticulture specialist, Gulf Coast Research and Education Center--Plant City, FL; Danielle Treadwell, assistant professor, Horticultural Sciences Department, and organic farming specialist; Susan Webb, associate professor, Entomology and Nematology Department; Amanda Gevens, assistant professor, Plant Pathology Department; R.A. Dunn, retired professor, Entomology and Nematology Department; G. Kidder, retired professor, Soil Science Department; D. Short, retired professor, Entomology and Nematology Department; G.W. Simone, retired professor, Plant Pathology Department, Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville FL 32611.

Container Fruit Trees

2010-01-23T18:01:00.000-08:00

Since winter is the time to order deciduous fruit trees, I thought a blog on selecting fruit trees to grow in containers would be helpful.

Why grow fruit trees in containers?
Aside from their ornamental value (citrus trees by the pool are beautiful!), container fruit tree gardens are an excellent choice for gardeners who have limited space or poor soil. The portability of container fruit trees open up the possibility of growing tropical and citrus fruits in cold climates.
When selecting fruit trees for containers, always select dwarf trees. They produce full sized fruit and grow just 6'-8' tall instead of a typical fruit tree which can grow 30'-40'.

Deciduous Fruit Trees: Deciduous Trees lose their leaves and become dormant during the winter months. Peaches, Pears, Cherries, and Apples are a few examples. Though each type of tree is different, here are a few general considerations when selecting a tree.
Chill Hours: Deciduous fruit trees usually require a certain number of "chill hours" in order to produce fruit. When purchasing fruit trees, select a fruit tree matching the hours your region receives on average below 45 deg.f.
Moisture: It is important to select varieties adapted for moisture levels in your region. Peaches and pears are especially susceptible to moisture.
Sunlight: Basically, all deciduous fruit trees require 4-6 hours of direct sunlight during the growth/fruiting phase. Artificial light will likely be needed for trees grown indoors.

Citrus and Tropical Fruits: Thanks to the portability of container gardens, tropical fruits can be grown in most regions if brought indoors during the winter months. Just remember to cover outdoor trees during periods of light frost and to bring them indoors prior to any freezing temperatures. Some varieties are more cold tolerant than others. Harvey Lemons, for example, tolerate light freezes quite nicely.
Moisture: Citrus and tropical fruits originated in areas with ample summer rains. Plan to water them daily during periods of warm weather.
Sunlight: Tropical and Citrus trees require at least 8 hours of sunlight a day. They do not have a period of dormancy and so will require supplemental light if moved indoors during the winter months.

Sources for Deciduous Fruit Trees:
Arbor Day Foundation sells inexpensive, dwarf fruit trees.
Trees of Antiquity sells heirloom and organic fruit tree varieties.
Just Fruits and Exotics, based in Florida, sells every fruit tree from Apples to Quince. Their website is also very informative.

Sources for Citrus Trees:
Florida, California, Texas, New Mexico: Floridians can only purchase citrus trees grown in Florida. Florida growers may not sell to other states. I like Harris Citrus in Tampa.
California, Texas, and New Mexico prohibit the import of citrus. Four Winds Growers is a good choice for California gardeners. In Texas, I like Thompson Citrus.
All other states: Four Winds Growers ships to most states outside of the quarantined areas (even Alaska and Hawaii).

For additional information about organically growing cherry, apple, peach, nectarine and pear trees in containers, consider purchasing my book, Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits and Vegetables for Your Organic Garden

Grow Garlic in Containers

2009-12-22T19:56:00.000-08:00

What grows in Florida in December? How about Garlic? Garlic does its best growing in cold temperatures! Last December, I planted Inchelium Red in December and harvested a fantastic crop early the following summer.

I am planting Inchelium Red again this year. It grows well in Florida and I like its mild flavor.

Garlic would grow fine outside in the ground in my North Florida climate, but I'm not interested in planting in the cold so I'm growing my garlic in containers this year.

When planting garlic, begin with good certified seed garlic bulbs. Filaree Farms and Irish Eyes are good reliable sources for healthy seed garlic.

To grow garlic in containers, start with pots 15-24" tall. Add soil enriched with compost.

Break garlic bulbs apart and plant only the largest cloves. Plant cloves flat side down, about 2-3" deep and 4-6" apart.

Keep pots indoors or outside in temperatures above 50 deg. F for about 4 weeks. Containers can then be moved to overwinter outside in colder conditions. Add a 1-2" layer of mulch prior to hard, long lasting freezes.

Water lightly twice weekly.

For more on growing crops in Florida, consider purchasing my book, Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits & Vegetables for Your Organic Garden

Bright green stalks will emerge in spring, signaling you to top dress your plants with compost or seed meal. In addition to compost, I sprayed my garlic crop with fish emulsion every 2-3 weeks throughout the first half of spring. Once the rapid growing phase is over, bulbing begins and you should discontinue feedings.

When bulbing begins, reduce waterings to once weekly.

It's time to harvest garlic in Florida when about half the leaves have browned. Don't let northern gardeners talk you into waiting longer. Inevitably, my garlic crops have rotted if I have waited longer.

Dig around the bulbs with a spading fork and gently lift the bulbs.

Removing dirt from the bulbs is the most difficult aspect of growing garlic. Don't wash the bulbs as they must be dry to cure properly. I brush off most of the dirt and let the rest fall off as the bulbs are curing. To cure, tie the stalks of 8-10 bulbs and hang these in a well ventilated barn or shed. Last year, I left mine hanging well into fall in a pole barn and they kept perfectly well. You can take yours down after about 4 weeks. Place the bulbs in a net bag and store in a cool location (45-55 deg. F.) Cooler temperatures encourage sprouting.

Common Nutrient Deficiencies in Vegetable & Fruit Plants

2009-12-05T08:16:00.000-08:00

Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits & Vegetables for Your Organic Garden
Organic gardening is different from traditional gardening in its focus on creating healthy soil. When soil is nutrient rich, plants grow quickly and are better able to withstand pest and disease stress.
Nitrogen is necessary for photosynthesis, cell growth, and reproduction. This is the element plants use in greatest amounts. Plants deficient in Nitrogen may have yellow leaves and poor growth. Adding organic matter, such as aged manure, cottonseed, and composted plant materials will improve nitrogen levels in the soil.
Phosphorousis required for cell growth, plant reproduction, and flower and fruit formation. Plants deficient in Phosphorous will be stunted, a purplish tinge on the underside of their leaves (yellow leaves in the final stages), poor flowering and poor fruiting. Amend deficient soil with bone meal or rock phosphate.
Potassium is necessary for formation of flowers, leaves, and fruit. It plays a role in photosynthesis in low light conditions and in plants' water regulation. Potassium deficiency occurs most commonly in sandy and acidic soils. Amend deficient soil with kelp or seaweed.
Calcium strengthens stems and other plant parts. Calcium deficiency begins with yellowing and progresses to browning of young leaves. Calcium deficiency is responsible for blossom end rot in tomatoes and tip-burn in lettuce. Amend deficient soil with eggshells and oystershells.
Magnesium is crucial for photosynthesis. It also aids in the action of nitrogen, phosphorus, and sulfur. Magnesium aids in cleansing plants of natural metabolic waste. It assists in the formation of proteins. First symptoms include the discoloration of veins in the lower leaves. Leaves may also become thin and brittle and may cup upward. Amend soils deficient in Magnesium with Epsom salts, Fishmeal, or Greensand.

Other Nutrient Deficiencies discussed in the book include Iron, Zinc, Boron, and Copper.
Container Gardening for Health

Create a Living Wreath Made of Herbs for Holiday Meals

2009-11-21T12:47:00.000-08:00

Living wreaths add beauty and fragrance to your home during the holidays. Harvest sprigs from the wreath to flavor your holiday meals.

To make a holiday wreath, begin with a metal wreath form. Wrap it in moistened sphagnum peat moss. Tuck 3"-5" herb plants into the wreath and secure with florist pins. Wrap with additional moss to hide roots.

Prepare a tray (large enough to hold the wreath) with a thin layer of soil over a 2" layer of moistened gravel. Lay the wreath flat on the tray in a sunny area. As the herbs grow, continue to secure them to the wreath. In about 4 weeks, your wreath will be sufficiently full to hang from a doorway. Take the wreath down after the big day and return it to the tray when the guests have gone home.

Herbs to grow for the holidays:

Creeping Thyme -- Excellent on everything from Turkey to roasted vegetables.
Rosemary -- Delicious on lamb, pork tenderloin, red meats, and vegetables.
Sage -- A must for traditional turkey and dressing.
Parsley -- Not just a garnish! I prefer the flavor of the flat leafed Italian
variety over curly parsley. Used in many sauce recipes, salads, and other vegetable dishes. Add finely chopped parsley and chives to green beans.
Tarragon -- Integral in French cuisine, Tarragon has a strong, slight licorice flavor. It's often used in butter base sauces and included in a rub for Turkey and Lamb.
Chives -- I love finely chopped chives in my mashed potatoes. They are also commonly used in vegetable dishes.
Mint -- Removes the gamey flavor from lamb.

Happy Holidays

Raw Foods Diet

2009-10-26T17:04:00.000-07:00

Spencer and Sabrina Aird, Proprietors or The Grass Root Restaurants

On Sunday I drove 3 hours west to Lakeland to give an organic gardening workshop at a Raw Foods Restaurant, Grass Roots. Owned and operated by Spencer & Sabrina Aird, Grass Roots has a warm ambience with cinnamon and saffron painted walls, large arched windows, and upscale art.

The Airds have created a hub for the raw/organic foodies in Lakeland (they also have a restaurant in Tampa). Like the owners, workshop attendees were vibrant and excited about growing some of their own foods.

My mission on this trip, however, was to learn as much as I taught. A small part of me believes I would be healthier on a raw foods diet, but a bigger part of me stubbornly reminds myself of the years I have spent developing recipes for cooked meals. I wanted to know how those who partake in the raw foods lifestyle survive (happily) without lentils, brown rice, pasta, apple pie...what kind of life is that?

After the workshop, I signed books and surveyed the crowd for the best person to corner about her diet. Aha! There she was...last in line and wearing yoga clothes. She would tolerate my questions no matter how basic and annoying. She handed me a book to sign and I held onto it until my questions were answered.

Beans? I asked. How do you live without beans? I asked a million questions and she answered them all. Thank you, Patricia!

It would be inaccurate to say raw foods dieters don't cook. Though it may not be over a hot stove, they spend more time preparing their food than the average person. They combine ground up nuts with other vegetables to make raw crackers, julienne zucchini to create "noodles", and substitute little known vegetables, such as Mameysa Pote, for those that would require cooking, such as sweet potato.

If I ever become a raw foodie, I promise it won't be tomorrow. But I am going to incorporate more raw foods into my cooking...for example, I'll add diced carrots and celery to my lentils after the lentils are cooked.

So--is a raw foods diet really any healthier than a cooked diet rich in vegetables and whole grains? See the Side Wiki for more information about this debate.

For more on growing your own food, visit The Gourmet Gardener.

Winterizing Fruit Trees

2009-10-03T16:22:00.000-07:00

For deciduous fruit trees to break dormancy and produce flowers in spring, they must be winterized properly. The following guidelines on fertilization, watering, pruning, chill hours, and freeze protection will ensure your tree wakes from its winter slumber next spring.
Fertilization: It's time to wean your tree off its monthly fertilization schedule. Reduce its feeding by half each time you feed until the end of fall. Do not fertilize again until spring.
Watering: Reduce waterings when the tree begins to go dormant. Soil should only be slightly moist throughout the winter period.
Pruning: Do not prune trees less than one year old. Any major pruning of older trees should be done during the dormancy period. See my book, Container Gardening for Health, for detailed information and illustrations.
Chill Hours: Most deciduous fruit trees require a certain number of "chill hours," the number of hours the temperature drops below 50 deg. F, in order to produce fruit. Research the number of chill hours required for your tree variety and compare this number to the average chill hours received in your region. (Ideally, this should be done prior to buying a fruit tree.)
Freeze Protection: Though deciduous fruit trees require chill hours, it is important to keep the roots in containerized trees from freezing. In most areas trees can overwinter in unheated garages or basements to protect them from hard freezes, but you still may need to wrap the containers in insulative material to prevent root death. I'd like to hear from gardeners in USDA Zones 1-2B about root protection of containerized fruit trees in these areas.

For More Information on Growing Organic Fruit Trees in Containers, check out my book, Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits and Vegetables for Your Organic Garden

Understanding the "Dirty Dozen"

2009-09-27T14:20:00.001-07:00

Excerpt from "Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits and Vegetables for Your Organic Garden" ISBN: 0978629329.
...In 1988, The National Research Council was commissioned by the U.S. Con-
gress to study issues concerning pesticides in the diets of infants and children using USDA/FDA data .
The results of this study are published in a 372 page book, Pesticides in the Diets
of Infants and Children(ISBN:0309048753). The study concludes that children are uniquely suscep-
tible to health problems from exposure to toxic pesticides because of their rapid
growth. Infants and children also consume greater quantities of certain foods as
a proportion of body weight. This leads to greater exposure to some pesticides.4
The problem with pesticides is that the quantity of a vegetable your child eats
may exceed government expectations. Anyone who has children knows they go
through phases where they will only eat one food or one group of foods. Since the
government is not in your dining room calculating how many pounds of straw-
berries your tot has eaten this week, they cannot tell you if she has consumed
too much of a certain pesticide. The government can tell you what foods have
chemical residue even after they have been washed and prepared for eating. In
fact, the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the US Food and Drug Adminis-
tration conducted nearly 43,000 tests on produce samples from 2000–2004.
The Environmental Working Group (www.ewg.org) analyzed this data and created a “simula-
tion of thousands of consumers eating high and low pesticide diets...” Their study
showed “that people can lower their pesticide exposure by almost 90 percent by
avoiding the top twelve most contaminated fruits and vegetables and eating the
least contaminated instead.”5 They nicknamed this list of foods “the dirty dozen.”
As of June 2007, the dirty dozen is as follows:
Rank Fruit or Veggie Score Page number
in this book
1 Peaches
2 Apples
3 Sweet Bell Peppers
4 Celery
5 Nectarines
6 Strawberries
7 Cherries
8 Lettuce
9 Grapes, Imported
10 Pears
11 Spinach
12 Potatoes
The list has changed slightly since this book was published -- Kale has moved to the top 12 and spinach has moved down slightly, but all the fruits and vegetables above still remain high on the list.
At The Gourmet Gardener, we don't believe you should have to limit these healthy fruits and vegetables in your diets. Instead, select foods your family commonly eats on the Dirty Dozen list and grow them organically. Use this book as a guide to growing healthy fruits and vegetables in containers and small spaces.
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September/October Schedule

2009-09-21T20:27:00.000-07:00

If you are interested in attending a book discussion or workshop, you are welcome to attend the following:

September 22 2PM Book Signing

Safety Harbor Library, Safety Harbor Florida

http://www.cityofsafetyharbor.com/index.aspx?nid=60

September 26 9 AM - 2 PM Book Sales/Signing

Organic Morning

Native Nurseries, Tallahassee FL

http://arguelles.tripod.com/NativeNurseries.html

October 10 and 11 Speaking Engagement and Booth Exhibit #937

Green Festival, Washington DC

http://www.greenfestivals.org/washington-dc/

To Schedule a Workshop, Discussion, or Book Signing:

386-362-9089

gginfo@windstream.net

Recipe Potato and Watercress Soup

2009-09-19T13:02:00.000-07:00

My Family Loved this Recipe. Try it!

Preheat oven to 350 Deg. F

Dice:
1 White Onion (Small to Medium)
2 Carrots (Large)
1 Russet Potato (Large)
4 Stalks Celery (or use celery leaf if you prefer)

In an oven proof pan with a tight fitting lid, saute the above in 1 TB butter and 2 TB Olive Oil for 5 Minutes. (Add each vegetable consecutively, one minute after each addition.)

Add 1/4 c soup stock. (If you don't have homemade stock, use College Inn White Wine & Thyme.)

Cover pan and place in oven for 10 minutes.

Return pan to stove top.

Add 2 Cups trimmed, chopped Watercress and 3 3/4 cups stock. Simmer 5 Minutes.

Add 1 Cup heavy cream, 1 TB red pepper flakes. Stir.

Add 1 Tsp. lemon juice.

Cook 5 more minutes.

Enjoy. Serves 4.

Want to grow your own organic vegetables, but don't have the space or time to grow a large garden?
Check out my book: Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits and Vegetables for Your Organic Garden

Fall Color in Florida

2009-09-08T17:16:00.000-07:00

Florida is a unique mix of natives and transplants. I am talking about people at this moment, not plants. Like non-native plants, some argue the "transplants" from our north should be classified as "invasives," but I like the mix of colors, heritage, growing habits, etc. Transplants add pizzaz to this people garden we call Florida.

During the fall season, though, I hear our friends from the north lament the loss of autumn color. They are happy to be in Florida during the winter, but autumn is another story. While it is true most of Florida's trees don't turn the brilliant orange, red, and yellow colors our northern neighbors flaunt, we can bring color to our porches, patios, and balconies through container vegetable gardens.

Lettuce pots, for example, need not be all green. Add Bright Lights Swiss Chard and Nasturtiums to your lettuce pots for brilliant orange and yellow color through most of the winter months. Outredgous lettuce will add a splash of red to your pot of "greens". Seeds source: Johnny's Seeds

Florida Friendly Fall Vegetable Varieties

2009-08-28T18:08:00.000-07:00

Due to popular demand at my workshops and book signings, I will be carrying the following Florida Friendly vegetable seeds for the Fall '09 planting season. Let me know if there are any others you would like to purchase. Beginning in '09, all my seeds are organic. Additional variety recommendations can be found on the IFAS site: www.edis.ifas.ufl.edu .
My mission is to provide gardening information not products so these seed sales are will be offered for a limited time beginning in September on www.gourmetgardener.com .
For more information on container gardening, please consider purchasing my book: Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits and Vegetables for your Organic Garden

Bush Beans-Blue Lake
Pole Beans-Kentucky Wonder
Broccoli Raab
Cabbage-Early Jersey Wakefield
Carrots-Nantes
Chinese-Taisai
Kale-Vates
Lettuce-Tom Thumb, New Red Fire, Red Oak, Outredgeous
Onions-White Lisbon
Shallots-Ambition
Spinach-America
Squash-Cocozelle
Strawberry Crowns-Albion
Tomatoes-Brandywine, Green Zebra
Watermelon-Sugar Baby

Watermelon Woes

2009-08-16T10:08:00.000-07:00

My sister called from a Tampa suburb this week, crying over the loss of two watermelon plants. Ever under the watchful eyes of her community's HOA "police," she discreetly planted two watermelon seeds in her flower bed. "I know I shouldn't be crying about this," she told me, "but they were in blossom and I was really looking forward to having watermelons."

While it is true that our husbands tell us our day is not complete unless we've had a good cry, I don't believe my sister would generally cry over a watermelon plant that had a run-in with a lawn mower. I thought for a few days about what might be behind her grief.

I pictured my sister planting the seeds with her five year old daughter. A few days later, I imagined my little niece running in to tell her Mom the seeds had sprouted. For the next few weeks, they watched in amazement as, amidst the neatly maintained Boxwoods and Knock Out Roses, a watermelon planted snaked out into the grass, lifting it's leaves to the sun. When the large yellow blossoms appeared, I know my niece was tempted to pick them. But my sister must have explained the purpose of the blossoms and why they needed to stay attached to the plant. My sister waited with her daughter in anticipation of what was to come next: from a stem just a quarter inch in diameter, a 5+ pound watermelon. (Watching a watermelon plant grow is rather like watching a skinny pregnant person's belly grow in her 9th month. You just can't figure out how it could be possible.) Though my sister has seen watermelons growing on the vine before, I bet her sense of wonder from the sight has never changed. This time would be even better because her daughter would watch in amazement right beside her.

Sadly, her expectations were dashed by the lawn boy.

Gardeners never stop feeling that sense of accomplishment when the harvest a vegetable. The harvest is like a statement: I was enough. I was nurturing enough, consistent enough, vigilant enough.

Who wouldn't grieve the loss of their watermelon plant?

Learn more

eco-Mom

2009-08-13T19:22:00.000-07:00

I like to think I'm a fairly forward thinking person. I try to stay informed about world events and live my life with a conscience. However, it is never CNN, NPR, or The New Yorker that motivates me to change. Invariably, my two sons are my moral compass.

I stopped using plastic bags when their disparaging looks at the grocery store became downright embarrassing. Kill a bug in my house and you'll be given the guilt treatment for 2 days. Poisonous snake in the pool? Don't kill it! Trap it and turn it loose in the neighbor's field. Under my children's ever vigilant eye, I've gradually become an "eco-Mom". Eco-Moms travel through time before -- making a purchase, throwing away a recyclable container, or swallowing a high carbon footprint glass of milk -- to determine if our actions will negatively impact our children's future. Sometimes we hold our breath a little longer than we should less the co2 burn a hole in their little lungs.

What is my children's latest challenge? Run a garden business without using disposable plastic containers. Of course, the kids are right. Have you ever been to a garden center where there wasn't a mountain of planters stacked behind a shed? Why do garden companies use so much plastic? Well-because the containers are inexpensive and light weight. They are not, however, very durable, so they frequently end up in the land fill. This should be unacceptable to those of us who are in the greenest of the green industries.

What are the alternatives? Now that I've promised my 15 year old son I'll stop using the disposable plastic, I'm on a mission to find something else that will be equally light weight and inexpensive. I'm not entirely writing off plastic. But any plastic container I use will have to be durable.

So far, I'm testing out eco-containers (made of straw) and earth boxes (yes, made of plastic). I will share the results of my trials at the Green Festival in Washington D.C. on October 8. I'll continue to test the containers over the next few years and will share the results on my website, . Any other recommendations for non-plastic containers would be greatly appreciated. Hurry! I need to start fall planting!

Fall & Holiday Gardens

2009-08-03T20:05:00.000-07:00

North Florida has two main growing seasons: spring and fall. I prefer fall. By late September, we are usually coming out of the hurricane season with a replenished water table. Additionally, cooler temperatures discourage pests and weeds. Often, our winters are so mild we can extend the fall garden right through Christmas. I am not exaggerating when I say I often pick Arugula for our Christmas salad.
It's time to prepare now for a fall garden. Plan where you will grow your crops, taking into consideration their light, moisture, space, and temperature requirements. If you will need to bring the plants inside during cold snaps, make sure to plant in light weight containers and include soil components such as vermiculite and perlite.
Many seeds prefer warmer temperatures for germinating than for growing. You can start seeds in late August and have them ready to produce fruit by October.
Also, don't forget to think about your holiday menu when planning a fall garden. Grow fresh sage and tarragon for your turkey, baby carrots, and a myriad of lettuce greens for your salad. Start in August!

Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits and Vegetables for Your Organic Garden

2009-06-24T08:43:00.000-07:00

Vegetable Gardening in Hot Climates

2009-06-24T08:35:00.000-07:00

Those of us who garden in an effort to reduce pesticides in our diet attempt to garden year round. It is tough this year here in Florida where the heat index is already 110 F. All is not lost. Container gardening is a much more comfortable option for gardener and plant.

Many vegetables and herbs like the heat. Chili Peppers, Tomatoes, Basil, Yardlong Beans, Cucumbers, Okra, Pumpkins and Zucchini are just a few of the veggies to grow in the hottest months.

If you are growing in containers, here are a few tips to make your summer veggie garden successful:

Select compact or dwarf varieties.
Use extra large containers -- they retain more moisture and better insulate the roots of your plants.
Mulch
Place containers on a saucer of water.
Keep containers out of the rain -- at least in Florida. The alternating heat and afternoon showers create fungal issues and make irrigation a pain. I would rather use saucers of water so the plants can take up moisture as needed.
Place plants in a location that receives afternoon shade.
When placing plants, beware of surfaces that radiate heat. Plants on my concrete patio were completed wilted by the afternoon so I moved them over to the pool deck (painted concrete)-- no more wilting!
Barbara Barker,
Author, Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits and Vegetables for Your Organic Garden

Organic Vegetable Gardening in Containers

2009-04-30T13:26:00.000-07:00

This blog is an effort to get more people gardening organically. I think there is a misconception that gardening is expensive. When comparing the price of organics at the store to home grown organics, you'll see that growing your own is not only healthier, but also less expensive.

For my garden this year, I spent about the equivalent of one week's grocery bill for my family of four. For that price, I now have cherry, apple, nectarine, and pear fruit trees that should produce for years to come; I also have strawberry plants, sweet bell peppers, tomatoes, grape vines, lettuce and spinach seeds, and potatoes. In my next blog, I'll talk about food safety.

I'm growing the above mentioned plants because they are the plants with the highest pesticide residue according to USDA data. I researched this so much that I eventually wrote a book about it --
Container Gardening for Health: The 12 Most Important Fruits and Vegetables to Grow in Your Organic Garden by Barbara Barker
Check it out!